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J^[|ieJPureter^_^ 

TII6 ''^^^^ Man's Feiend" is a book of Butchers' Rec 
ipes and Meat Men's Secrets. It is not a city dire( 
tory, an encyclopedia, or an unabridged dictionary. Henc 
its size is limited. Furthermore it is intended for th 
drawer, the shelf, and even the pocket. It is a handbooL 
of ready reference with all superfluous matter eliminatedli 
As such it is worth ten times the dollar you paid for it.. 

The author wishes to make one more suggestion to his 
patrons. You have paid for these secrets; see that you 
keep them. You are thrice better armed than your com- 
petitor who has not purchased this book, and it is your 
fault if you loan this book to every Thomas, Dickson and 
Harrison who loafs about your place. 

A word to the wise is sufficient. , 

Yours fraternally, F. E. RHORER. { 

MiLPOED, Inc., Aug. 1, 1893, \ 



The 



MEAT MAN'S FRIEND 



A Standard Book of Reference 



FOR THE 



LIE^T TI^A^DE. 



Comprising the Latest Original and Compiled Reci- 
pes, and Comprehensive Instructions for Hand- 
ling, Cutting, Curing and Preparing Meats; 
and Many Other Interesting Facts. 



By Foeest E. Riioeer. 



PRICE, ... $1.00. 



, ^s 



MILFORD, IND.: 
"Mail" Publishing Housb. ^*J ^ 

Copyright, 1893. 



OOISTTENTS. 



Chaptek I. 

PAGE. 

The Beef — Cut Showing the Different Parts or 
Pieces in the Carcass — Points in regard to Beef. 8-5 

Chapter II. 

The Veal — Cut Showing the Different Parts or 
Pieces in the Carcass — Points about Veal ...... 6 

Chapter III. 

Pork — Parts ot a Hog — Descriptive Points 7-8 

Chapter IV. 

Mutton — Parts of a Mutton — Parts of a Lamb — 
Descriptive Points 9-10 

Chapter V. 

The Curing of Beef, Pork and Mutton — Various 
Valuable Recipes Unknown to the General Trade 
— The Salting of Beef and Veal Skins; How to 
Keep Them from Shrinking 11-22 

Chapter VI.- 

Casings: Hog, Sheep and Beef — Middles — Hints 
to Butchers as to Arranging Shops. 22-25 

Chapter VII. 

How to Make Sausage, Head Cheese, Bologna, Mince 
Meat, Meat Pies, etc., etc. — Numerous Other 
vVays of Preparing Meat 25-50 

Chapter VIII. 

Shipping Veals and Poultry — How to Prepare 
Them for Shipping and for the Market .50--?3 

Chapter IX. 

Ice — The Building of Ice Houses and the Packing 
of Ice — How to Build a Good Modern Ice 

Hc'U.se " - ^ The H:',de Pit '' - P^^i^servaline ....... 58-55 



( 3 ) 
CHAPTER I. 




1. Cheek. 

2. Tail End Rump. 

3. Aitch or Edge Bone. 

1 Kound 

4. Buttock, leg- ruad 

being- 

ihe 
first and 
► secoi»(l 
cuts of 

the 

r<juud 

and cut 

into 

J steaks. 

Leg of Beef or Shank. 



6. Mouse Buttock. 



6. 
1. 

8. Thin Flank. 

9. Top of sirloin, or part 
of the thick Flank, usually 
cut with Sirloin Steaks. 

10. Piate,Rattle Ran or Run- 
ning Piece. 

11. Navel or thin end of the 
brisket/ 



12. Brisket. 

13. Shoulder Clod. 

14. Shoulder. 

15. Shin or Shank. 

16. Socket or Face Rump. 

17. Hip or thick sirloin; 
also. Pin Bone Sirloin, be- 
ing a part ol the Rump or 
Hook Bone, 

18. Small end sirloin, 

(17 and 18 are cut into sir- 
loin steaks.) 

19. Neck. 

20. Fore Rib— 5 ribs. Jg" 

21. Middle Rib— 4 ribs. [ I 

22. Neck. J I 

23. Chuck Rib— 3 ribs. I ^ 

24. Thick or Prime — rib. 



( i ) 

POINTS lis REGARD TO BEEF. 

If youDg and freshly killed, tlie meat should be in- 
grained with streaks, dots and pieces of suet through- 
out. 

If the animal is healthy and cool when killed, the suet 
Will be very firm, white, dry and crumbly. The lean or 
ox beef will be a dark red when first cut, changing to a 
fjright or cherry color on exposure to the air, due proba- 
hiy to its juices coming to the surface. Should be juicy, 
firm and somewhat elastic, smoothly grained and velvety 
--^ the touch. 

■^Heifer beef is more closely grained and perhaps less 

ight in color; the bones smaller and the suet a purer 

bite. The meat of a lean animal is inferior. If. the fat 
^^ yellow, oily or fibrous it is not prime beef. Too much 

c is wasteful in trimming. Bull beet is the coarsest and 
most rank in flavor. It is known by its darker color, 
close, tough fibre and the bad odor of the fat. A bluish 
color denotes poor beef. A pale, moist muscle indicates 
a young animal, a deeper hue, an older one. The age for 
prime beel is from 3 to 6 years old. A steer will average 
800 pounds, a heifer 500. Twenty per cent, of the animal 
can be counted as bone. Beef is best during winter and 
spring, after being grain or stall fed. Grass-fed beef may 
be juicy and tender, but it lacks the flavor of grain beef, 
and is less solid. Grain or stall fed beef shrinks less in 
cooking than grass fattened animals. The latter are sel- 
dom salted down. 

Work oxen, when fattened, make better beef than the 
steer that has always been fat. The meat on those parts 
of the animal where the muscles are least called into 
action, are the most tender and succulent. Beef should 
be kept sometime before it is cooked to allow it to ripen. 
A month in the winter time will greatly improve it, and 
as long a time as is possible in the summer if kept in a 
cooler or cold storage where an even temperature can be 
maintained. If meats are beginning to spoil, it can read- 
ily be told by thrusting a knife into the bone, a decided 
odor boiij": on the knife l)]ade. Meats that have been 
frozen lose much of their flavor, though they become 
more tender. Cooling rooms should be built to avoid 
freezing or bringing the meat in contact with the ice; and 



( 5 ) 

should aim to keep it at as high and dry a temperature as 
is possible. Freezing meats hastens decomposition after 
it sets in. Fresh beef shrinks about 1-5 in cooking. 
With meats that have shrunk in hanging impress upon 
your customers the fact that they will shrink less in cook- 
ing. Preservative, Preservaline and Soly Salt will pre- 
serve cut pieces a long time. The hind-quarters have 
more meat m proportion to the bone and should bring a 
much better price. Though some claim that the meat 
from the fore-quarters is more juicy and delicate in flavor. 
The best steaks are cut from the middle of the rump, and 
may weigh as much as four pounds when properly cut 
with the bone and fat. (Trimming somewhat reduces 
this.) 

A good steak should be cut one inch thick from a piece 
of beef that has been kept at least 10 days in a cooling 
room and should never be pounded. The orthodox He 
brews never eat the hmd-quarters of an animal as it is for- 
bidden by their religion. The ribs, sirloin and rump are 
the best pieces for roasting. The round, buttock, edge 
bone, shin, brisket, shoulder and clod, are all excellent 
stewing and boiling pieces. 

To prevent meats that flies have touched from spoiling, 
rub with a little vinegar, drying immediately after. 

MeaU Contain from 5 to 10 per cent, of Fat. — Eggs, 12; 
Milk, 3; Butter, 80 to 90; Cheese, 8 to 30; Almonds and 
Nuts, 53 to 66. And all vegetables, traces of fat some- 
times as high as 3 per cent. 






( 6 ) 
CITAPrER IL 




1. Head. 

2. Neck, Scrag End. 
8. Neck, Best^End. 

4. Breast, or Brisket End. 

5. Shoulder or Blade Bone. 
Fore Leg or Fore Knuckle. 

6. Breast, Best End, 

7. Loin, Best End. 



8. Loin, chump end, con- 
sists of rump and hook 
bone. 

9. Hind Knuckle. 

10. Leg, or Fore Knuckle, 

11. Feet. 

12. Fillet. 




J ' nil, ^ 



( 7 ) 

POINTS IN BEGARD TO VEAL. 

Veal is best in the early part of the spring and shonld 
be eaten soon alter being killed. 

A good veal should be of fair size, weighing from 125 
to 150 pounds, and dress a little over two-thirds of that 
amount with the skin on. The meat should be juicy, fat, 
finely grained, white and firm. If the calf is too large, 
the meat will be coarse and tough. The fat should be 
firm and of a whitish color. 

Veal, bemg more difficult to keep than other meats, is 
perhaps the most risky for the butcher to handle, as it is 
neither suitable for smoking or corning, though it may be 
made into sausage. 

The best grade of veal is the milk calf, raised on the 
mother's milk. Stall-fed calves rank next, and may be 
nearly as good. Both of these are at their best when 
about two months old and tlieir meat is very delicate. 

Calves raised on buttermilk and slops are poor and thin. 
The meat has a reddish tinge, the kidneys a dark color 
and no fat about them. The meat of grass-fed calves is 
much like beef, though not nearly as good as either beef 
or veal, and should be worked into sausage'meat. The 
me2t of a calf less than four weeks old is termed Bob 
veal, and usually weighs less than 60 pounds when dressed. 
They are unfit for food, and liable to confiscation by the 
health department. The meat is bluish, watery and 
gelatinous. Veal should never be allowed to acquire the 
slightest taint, as it renders it unwholesome and offensive 
to the taste. 

The hind quarters are the choice and bring the most 
profit. The fillet, loin, leg, breast, shoulder and best 
part of the neck are the best for roasts. The neck, breast 
and knuckle are more usually stewed or boiled. The Ion 
and ribs are cut into chops. The legs and ribs are made 
into cutlets. The lower part of the leg or knuckle is sold 
for soup pieces, stews, etc. A fillet of veal is the leg 
piece with the bone removed. The udder or firm v\^hite of 
the fillet is much used by French cooks instead of butter, 
especially in the composition of their force meats. The 
head and feet of the calf are valuable articles of food. 
The head should be scalded and the hair taken off. The 
skin shouid "have a healthy look and seem firmly attached. 



( 8 ) 

The eyes look bright and clear. If the head appears yel- 
lowish, it is inferior and will bring you a less price. In 
cleaning the head, be careful to remove the brains before] 
scakling it. Calves' brains are a great delicacy and should 
bring you a good return. The feet are very rich in gela- 
tinous substance. They should be scalded, scraped and 
made to look clean and nice, when they are then ready for 
sale. Calves' haslet comprises the heart, liver and lights. 
Calves' tongues are considered fine and will sell well. 
Sweet breads are the glands (pancreatic) that assimilate 
the oily portions of the milk. Are located, one in the 
lower part of the throat and the other near the heart. The 
latter is the choicer, smaller and more nearly round. 
Sweet breads are found in the young calf that is fed on 
the mother's milk until it has been turned out to grass, 
when they waste away, no longer being in use, or become 
tough, hard and lose their delicacy. The two are usually 
sold together and weigh perhaps half a pound. They are, 
without doubt, the greatest dainty that we have, though it 
is only in late years that they have been sold separate. 
Sweet breads retail as high as |1 each if of a good quality 
and at one fourth this price it will pay to sell them 
separate. 

Vemso)i. — Buck v«nison is considered finer than doe 
venison. Ihe greater the depth of fat upon the haunch, 
the better the quality of the meat, as venison cannot be 
too fat. If lean, it will be dry and flavorless. The fat 
should be clear and white, the lean of a dark red. If the 
cleft of the hoof be small and smooth, the animal is young; 
but if the marks are the reverse of these, it is old. The 
haunch is the prime and favorite joint of venison. The 
neck and shoulder are excellent for stews. If kept to the 
proper point and well dressed, this is the most tender of 
all meats. But care is necessary to bring it into a fitting 
state for the table wiihout its becoming offensive. The 
fumes of creosote are said to be an admirable preservative 
against putrescence. The cuts are the loin, leg, saddle, 
fore quarters and steaks. Venison usually brings about 
25 cents per pound. 



( 9 ) 
CHAPTER III. 




P-^RTS OF A HOG.— 1. Cheek or Head. 2. Ribs, Fore Loin or Chine. 3. 
Loin. 4. Legr ol* Ham. 5. Belly, Flauk or Spring. 6. Hand or Brisket. 7. 
Shoulder. 8. Hock. 9. Feet. 

POEK. 

Pork Is dangerously unwholesome when ill fed or in any degrree dis- 
eased, and its quality should be closely examined before it is purchased. 
Two million hog-s are slaught'^red in New York City yearly. The liog has 
43 teeth s^nd usually a cloven hoof, thouph the native hogs of Norway, i?ar- 
dlnia and lllyrla, and formerly the Berkshire hog of ICngland, did not have 
a cleft hoot, it being entire. 

Pork, like vear, should be eat-en soon after being killed. The hog is 
always cut into halves, splittJng down the backbone; the head cut off, and 
tlie halves divided into quarters. The fat meat should be ve»-y whi e and 
clear of any blemisb; the lean of a delicate red, juicy, fir-a and finely 
grained. In the best pork, the skin siiould be tnin and pearl5% smooth ani 
cool to the touch. If it be Clammy, the pork is stale. If the skin 1*; thick, 
the pig is old,. If the fat is full of small kerf>els, it is indicative of disea-^e. 
If the fat is yellow and soft, it is inferior. The hog is termed by the Isra- 
elites unclea-D, and they will not eat him. Bvit of all kinds of me rts he is, 
perhaps, the most economical for food, there being a less proportion of 
bone to the meat than either in beef or mutton, A pig of 180 to J-'Oi) pounds 
yields 75 to 80 per cent, of available food. Pork, in cooking, loses 13V^ p^r 
cent, its weight. 

In England the hog, to be made into bacon, is singed instead of being 
scalded. 

The leg is the most economical cut; the loin the richest. The leg is so'd 
for roasts when the pork is not large or roarse, smoked iito laams or 
corned. The leg, for ham'?, should weifih from 8 to U pounds, be plump, 
round and the bones f-mnl!, the shank shore and tHpermg, skin thin and not 
shrivelled, the fat white and lirm Hams ^re better cur». d if kfpt a long 
time in moderate pickle than a short time in strong pickle. The feet retail 
either fresh or pict^led. Af e generally salted down for immediate use or 
laid in pickle two or three weeks if they are wanted to keep. The part of 
the slioulder called the hand is occasionally pickled, the same way as hiiajS 
or bacon, or may be salted and boiled, but it is l-oo sinewy for rotstipy. 
The shoulders are salted or smoked. The loin, welt sc«>red, is an excellent 
roasting piece or may be cut into chops. The brisket is c<>ine4 or salted. 
The ribs are cut into chops or made into roasts. Whole sides, wben salred, 
are called tlit<,hes of bacon. When the rind and fat are taken off, they are 
called spare ribs. Bacon is tl>e tliin part o.f the ribs and bf^liy— that which 
is nou too thick being the most saleable. Pork tender oi' s are delicate and 
sell for more than the chops, but are Ipss juicy. Thy head is made into 
head cheese or cut into two or four pi«^ces and corned. 

Young pig, to be fit for the table, mUst be perfectly sweet. The 
weights of the different cuts of a pig of CO pounds would be: Leg, 8 lbs.; 
loiu, 7 lbs.; brisket, 6 2>s.; rib. 7 as.: head (oi e Jjalf*, ~' fts. 



{ 10 ) 
CHAPTER IV. 



Parts op a Mutton.— l. Neck, Scrag- Ena Fs^* 
•— th6 two necks is called a Chine. 2. Neck, fWi^ - 
Best End. 3. Shoulder. 4. Breast. 5. Loin, r.%* 
best end— both Loifes is called a Saddle. 6, [-}"-• 
Loin, chump end. 7. Flank. 8. Le^, f *v' 

MUTTON. 

The best mutton is small boned, short-leg-- 
ged, plump atid the meat finely grained, the 
Jeg bones clear whi e, the scored skin on the 
fore qu«rtei-s iietuiy red Tije I'at is abundant, 
white, clear and solid. When it is yellow, the 
meat is raok aiid of a bad auaiity. The lean is 
ot a dark rather than a bi'iglit hue, juicy and 
firm. 

I" ew York City slaughters over 2,000,000 
sheep and lambs per j ear. 

A I'uil g-rown sheep dressed weijahs from 60 
to '.»0 pounds HDd yields 6t) per ceiit. <~=f availa- 
ble food. Mution, like beef, is greatly im-, 
prov'-d by ripenlDg-. It loses in cooking- about 
one-tluid its weight. '' 

The llesh of a youup: sheep is called lamb 
until it is oneyear old. itis then termed mut- 
ton and becjmes less tender and delicate, 
though in Englaud experi'-ticed judges do not 
cotisider 't to pe in iioriectio!) until itis nearly 
or Quiiefivc years old. Tjie exquisite flavor 
of Engiish and Sc tch mutton comes from the 
nroraatlu Aviid herb'^ in their pastures. Earn 
mutton is darker and coarser grisiued, ihe fat 
less ^'hlte, tl-.e lies'! spongy and rank. Lean 
mutton is g-onei'slly iul'erior; so also is mution 
having- jellowi'sh fat, with fiabbv, blaish or 
string-y meat. 

The fore-quarters are t^^enerally sold from 
one-third to one-halt Jess than the hiijid-quar- 
ters. The ]eg i^ the clioice piece and should 
bring a higher price, as it has it:ore meat in 
proportiOii to the bone than anypsrtot thej 
animal. The best chops j; re tfom tliQ middle 
of the loin ; they are also cut from the leg- and 

end of thQ neck. Chops should be cut not less than one-half inch thick and 
nat over fat. Bib chops are sometimes cut from the breast. '11) e breast 
m?" shouhier are good roasting- pieces with the shoulder bhide taken out. 
Uhe haunch consists of the leg- and the part of the loin adjoining It; the 
saddle, or. the two loins toi' ether, or the undivided back of the t-heep. 
These last are always sold as roa-ts. The neck is sometimes a ro-stioir 
piece, but is more g-«nerally soup meat. The scras:, or that part Avldch 
DOlns the head, is seldom sold for any obhor purpose tthan soup pieces The 
loin and the leg- are occasionally cured and smoked like ham or bacou. 

Cutlets aie taken from the thick end of the loin and sometimes from 
the best end oi the uecic. Mutton kidneys sell readilj\ 

Lamb.— The early spring lamb roHches the east^ern market about the 
middle of March. The first are considered a great delicacy and command 
Jiiah prices, hidchets paying- from S8 to $13 each. Are dressed with skin 
and toes on The fore- quarters s^ll from S3 to $S each and the hi'in-quar- 
ters H to $5. The best htmb has hara, white fat on the back and a' out the 
kidne.AS. The bones are of a reddish color. A plump lamb w^'ighing 30 to 
85 poumis will -bring more than one weierhing- 50 pounds. The best winter 
lambs and yearlings are raised in Canada, New York State and Michigan. 




( 11 ) 

GPIAPTER Y. 

•Curing Hams.-— Allow the haras to hang for a week 
©r teij (lays until teu'-ter — is long as possible, if they keep 
perfectly sweet. U^efor each ham 1 teacup of salt, I ta- 
blespooiifai of raolasSes, 1 oz. of saltpeter. Lay the haius 
ill a clean dry tub; heat the mixture and rub well into the 
i>ams, especially around the bones and recesses. Repeat 
the process once or twice, or until the mixture is all used. 
Then let the haras lay 2 or 3 days, put them in brine 
(strong enough to be^r up an egg) tor 4 weeks, after 
which wash iti hot water and dry for 24 hours. Smoke 
from 3 to 5 days over a slow fire, being careful not to heat 
the hams. Hickory wood and sawdust is the best for 
flavor and color. If it cannot be had, use any hard wood. 
Tie up carGl'uUy in bags for the summer. Meats that are 
pretty far gone can often be sweetened by washing sever- 
al tinies in clean,, cold water, and while they are in the 
last bath throw in several pieces of red hot charcoal; 
this sweetens them for the time beincc, but they should be 
caok-ed immediately afterwards. P.irhoiling soinetimes 
freshens up meats if they are not to Jieir spoilt. 

Pickred Hamg No. i. — About 12 hours after butch- 
eriijg, the hania intended for pickling are cut" off, and 
thoroughly rubbed with 1 oz, saltpetre and 2|- lbs salt. 
They are then placed in a water-tight barrel. It a num- 
ber of hams can be packed at one time, and in such a 
manner that no empty places are between them, aiid the 
top left quite smooth, RuiUcient brine will form of itself 
to cover them — that is, if they are properly weighted 
down. Should, however, there not be enough brine form- 
ed in this way, boih:^ lb. salts hi 2 quarts water, let it 
cool, and pour over the hams in the barrel. For pjckling 
a narrow barrel is generally chosen, as more brine is nec- 
essary for a wide one. Care must be taken at all times 
that the meat is entirely covered with brine. The liams 
should remain in the brine 3 weeks undisturbed Then 
they may he taken out, hung up in the air for several 
days, and smoked for 3 weeks. 

V Pickltd Hams No. 2. — To each ham take 1 lb. salt, 
I- oz. salt petre, 2 oz. sugar; with this rub the liams thor- 
oughly upon all sides, and pack m a barrel. Pour upon 
this a brine made as follows-: 1 lb. salt, 2 oz. juniper ber- 



( 12 ) 

ries, -J oz. pepper, i oz. allspice, ^ oz. cloves, all whole. 
15oil these in two quarts of water. When cool it is ready 
for use. If desired, a little garlic may be added to this 
i)rine. The haras are now weighted down with a wooden 
hd, upon which a moderately heavy stone ia placed, and 
must remain so in the brine for three weeks. Th3y mav 
then be removed, washed, *hnng in the air for 8 days, and 
then put in a smoke house for 3 days. This makes them 
nice for bciling. If they are not cooked in this way at 
once, they must be smok.ed for 3 weeks instead. The 
!>rine, after being used, is still good for pickling meats, 
tiiough they uiuhI be previously rubbed with salt before 
being put into it. 

Homeopathic Ham?. — ^Immediately after butchering, 
ihe warm hams are cut from the pig. Take 1-^ lbs. salt 
heated in an earthen diph until very hot, and rub them 
with this upon all sides Un-^ of an hour. Almost the en- 
tire qaantity of salt must be used for two hams. As the 
halt is quite hot it is well to put on a leather glove in rub- 
bing. Immediately after rubbing the hams, tli^iy are 
hung in the air and remain so for 3 weeks. These hams 
>vili keep unsmoked. ^ oz. salt-petre can also be added 
ii" wished. While smoking is not necessary, k often im- 
])roves them, and requires about 8 days to do it. 

Veal Hams. — From a fat calf, which should be at 
least 8 weeks old, a leg and ham is taken, (the bones be- 
ing removed) and is rubbed with a -mixture of 1 lb salt 
and 2 oz. sugar then place in a dish and covered with brine 
p.repared as in pickled bam No. 1. After remaininpj in 
this brine 2 weeks, it is taken out, washed and smoked for 
24 hours. The veal ham is then boiled and left in the 
broth to cool. In taste it surpasses the best of pork ham. 
The ox tongue may be served in the same manner. 

Pickled Spare Ribs and Chops. — The ribs of pigs, 
whiijh are cut from the bellv meat, are called spare ribs. 
The back.bone, with the adjoining ribs, are called ejiops. 
Upon these ribs meat about the thickness of the finger i^ 
left. These are rubbed upon all sides with dry salt, and 
upon a dish, one upon the other. They should remain 
packed in that condition for 8 days; after which .ime they 
can be smoked, or used unsmoked. This is also the rule 
for chops, though they are nicer if pickled in brine. which 



( 18 ) 

has been used for pickled ham, After they have been in 
this brine for about 8 days, they are boiled and eaten 
cold. Most of our best meats are spoiled by oversalting, 
and again by using too much spice. Smoking meats does 
not preserve them, it merely saves them from destruction 
by flies and iu sects. 

Pickled Pork. — For 80 lbs. of meat, use 2 quarts and 
1 pint of fine Fait. 4 lbs. of sugar or 1 quart of best mo- 
lasses, 3 oz. saltpetre; pulverize and mix the seasoning 
with the exception of the 2 quarts of salt, using 1 pint 
only. Rub the meat well all over and lay upon boards 
upon the cellar floor for 24 hours; then put a few clean 
stones in the bottom of the barrel, lay sti<*.ks across these 
that the meat does not soak in the liquor that drains from 
it. Pack the meat in layers, strewing between these the 
remaining 2 quarts ot salt. Let it lie in the cask for Ifs 
or 16 days, every day during this time tipping the cask 
to drain off the liquor, or drawing it through a bung-hole 
near the bottom. Pour this back in cupfuls, over the 
meat. Take it out at the end of a fortnight, rub each 
piece well over with dry salt, and return to the barrel. 
If the liquor does not cover it, make fresh brine in the 
proportion of 2 lbs. of salt, ^ oz. of saltpetre, and a quart, 
of water, and pour in when cool after it has boiled for half 
an hour. Lay a round piece of board upon the upp'' 
layer and keep this down with weights. Examine f' 
time to time to be sure the meat is keeping well. S' d 
it seem likely to taint, throw away the pickle, rr each 
piece over with dry salt and pack anew. Pork pickled in 
this way will keep two years. 

Salting Pork. — Cover the bottom of the barrel with 1 
inch of salt; pack down 1 layer of pork and cover with 1 
inch of salt. Continue this until the barrel is nearly full 
or all the pork packed, then cover with a strong brine. 
The meat should be packed as tight as possible, the 
rind side down or next to the barrel, and always covered 
with the brine. Weight the meat down if necessary. If 
scum arises, pour off the brine, scald it, add more salt 
and pour it back over the meat, examining before hand if 
any soft rind is in the barrel. Old brine can be boiled 
down, and if well skimmed, can be used again. 

Receipt for Making Corned Beef. — Make a brine 



strong enough to carry a potato about half out. To ihe|| 
proportion of half a barrel add ^ lb. of saltpeter; if pure, 
you do not need as much. About ten days will cure it; 
you ean tell from the amount of blood in the brine. When 
cured, change the brine and put on a clean, weak brine to 
keep It. (Jorned beef when cooked, the bones removed, 
and pressed in corn beef pans, can be sliced and retailed at 
a good price and be far superior to the corned beef that is 
sold in cans. 

Ham in Bladder. — Use the ham of a very fat pig; re- 
move the bones, leaving fat upon the raeat^ an inch thick. 
Trim as smooth and round as possible. Tlie pickling is' 
done the sa^me as for common ham. The hams are then 
washed, put in a bladder, twine wound around it, and luing 
m a smokehouse for 14 days.- 

Bayonne Ham. — From a freshly butchered lean pig, 
the tenderloins are taken, which lie along either side ot 
the backbone; are cut out lengthwise, as whole as possi- 
ble, and trimmed olf round in the shape of a sausage. They 
are then rubbed wdth hot salt, and should be placed in a 
dish containing brine made of 1 lb. oC salt, boiled in two 
^arts of water, (the brine being cold before using.) The 
meat must be entirely covered witli brine, and remain so 
for 14 days. The tenderloins are then washed. Put them 
in b^ef bungs, and wrap tightly with twine, in which con- 
dition they should be smoked for 2 weeks. This tender- 
loin sausage is really a delicacy and an ornament to the ta- 
ble. 

To Corn Beef, Pork or Hams. — 100 lbs. meat, 6 gal- 
lons of water, 9 lbs. oi salt, 3 lbs. of brown sugar, 1 qt. 
molasses, 6 oz. saltpe'tre; boil, skim, and let it stand ti'l 
cold. Dissolve the saltpetre and add to the pickle. Pack 
the meat and pour the pickle over it. 

Corn Beef No. i — To each gallon of cold water put 
1 quart of rock salt, 1 oz. ot saltpetre, and 4 oz. of brown 
j^ngar (it need not be boiled;) as long as any salt remain^ 
nmlissolved, the meat will be sweet. If any scinn shouhi 
vhe, scald and skim well, adding more salt, snitpetre and 
sugar; as you put each piece of meat into the brine, rub 
it over with salt. If the weather is hot, gash the mea!: 
to the bone and put in salt. Place a flat slone or some 
weight oil the meat to keep it under the brine. 



( 15 ) 

Corn Beef No. 2. — To every 4 gallons of water al- 
low 2 lbs. of brown sugar and 6 lbs of salt', boil about 20 
minutes, taking off the skuin; the next day turn it on the 
meat ])acked in the pickling tub; pour oft' this brine; boil 
and steam every 2 months, ad-iing 3 oz. of brown sugar 
and -^ lb. of common salt. It will keep good a year. Sprin- 
kle the meat with salt before turning the pickle ovf^r it. 
Let it entirely cover the meat; add 4 oz. saltpetre Can- 
vas lids are excellent for covering, as they admit the air 
and exclude flies. Mutton and beef mav be kept sweet 
several weeks by simply rubbing well with dry salt and 
clo.-ely covering. Turn the pieces whenever the vessel is 
uncovered. 

Recipe for Mahiag Spiced Corn Beef. — Take 20 lbs. of 
corn beef (or its proportion) fat and lean mixed, boil un- 
til nearly done; then add 2 oz. of each of the following 
named spices: Allspice, coriander, pepper, and 1 oz. of 
cloven, (spices must all be whole;) boil \ hour and then 
take out the meat, leaving the spices in the pot liquor, as 
the meat will be sufficiently flavored. 

To Cure Hams and Beef for Drying. — For 100 lbs. of 
meat, use 7 lbs. of coarse salt, 5 lbs. of brown sugar, 4 oz. 
saltpetre, 1 oz. of saleratus dissolved in water enough to 
cover the meat — about 4 gallons. Pack the meat in the 
cask without any additional salt and pour the pickle over 
it. Let it stand aibout 6 weeks, then take the meat out and 
j«.moke it. Hang the hams in the smokehouse, the legs 
downward. After smoking, slip each ham into a loose 
muslin sack to keep off the flies, and hang them up in a 
cool, dry place. Be careful that the hams are not frozen 
when the pickle is put on, or they will not take the salt. 

PicMing Beef and Hams.— -^oi 100 lbs. of beef or ham, 
add 6 lbs. salt, 2 oz. saltpetre, 2 tablespoons soda, 2 lbs. 
sugar, 4 gallons water; mix well together. Sprinkle the 
bottom of the barrel with salt, put in the beef with very 
little salt between each layer; pour over the brine and put 
on a weight to keep well covered. 

JPlcMed Beef. —-Yvom a steer, take the tail end rump and 
aitch, this being the second cut below the tail end rump. 
Rub both with salt, a little saltpetre, and a liltie sugar. 
Then jy'ace in a barrel used for pickling. A brine is then 
prepared of boiling water and salt, which must be very 
strono;. This brine when cold is poured over the meat so 



(18) 

ttat it will entirely cover it. The meat is weighted do wn^ 
with a wooden lid and stones, and left undisturbed for 3 
weeks, after which time it may be taken out and hung in 
the air for 4 days. Then smoke for 8 days. It can be 
eaten raw or boiled in meat broth. Should not boil long- 
er than 2 hours, and be allowed to cool m the broth. Ox] 
or pig's tongue may be pickled in the same brine. 

Corning Pieces. — The pieces generally used for corning 
are the | ite, navel, brisket and top or sirloin, which have 
the fat mixed through them. The riimp^, edge bones and 
rounds are also corned and preferred by many on account 
of their leanness and the delicacy of the outer fat. 

Corned Beef. — To 100 fts. beef use 8 tbs. of salt, 3 oz. 
saltpetre, 2 lbs. of brown sugar or molasses, 4 gallons of 
water. Boil all together, then skim, and it is ready for 
use. If it be kept long, add 2 lbs. of salt after 2 weeky 
in brine. 

Corned Beef. — 100 lbs. beef, 3 qts. of ground rook salt, 
4 ft)S. of sugar, 4oz. saltpeter, mix well. Rub each piece 
of meat with the mixture, pack close and pres^ hard. Beef 
prej)ared in this manner makes its own brine, and will be 
lit for use in 3 weeks, and will keep the year round by re- 
packing and boiling the brine m July. 

Hamburg Smohed Meat. — ^Take the tail end rump and 
the aitch, same as in pickled beef; place in a dish with 
boiled water, keeping the whole agitated for 6 minutes. 
Then take out, rub upon all sides with a mixture of salt 
nnd saltpeter, which has been heated in an earthen dish, 
tiien put the meat in a large dish for 24 hoars, turn it over 
on the other side and let it remain there for 24 hours lon- 
ger; th« meat can then be smoked for 48 hours. Use the 
brme in which the meat was pickled, add the necessary 
water, and boil the meat in this for 3 hours, aUowing it to 
cool in the broth. It can be kept for several \i\Leks, and 
may be eaten cold with bread and butter. Kote -It may 
also be boiled in the same manner as "boiled ham," 

Jlomeopathic Meat. — All homeopathic meat contains no 
spices except salt; neither are they smoked. Take a piece 
of beef, pork or ham which is to be used for this purpose, 
rub it thoroughly upon all sides with hot salt, and hang in 
the open air, (this can only be done in winter) let the meat 
hang until it is perfectly dry. A thick jjiece certainly 



( in 

needs more time than a thin one, but on the average it 
takes Irom 4 to 6 weeks. The meat will then keep for 
vears. 

Jr'alates — The ]»alate that lies in the root of the mouth 
is a dainty that should bring a good price. 

Trqye.—ThQ best is thick, white and fat — the honey 
comb })art being the choicest. Dark tripe signifies a dis- 
tillery-fed or diseased beef. 

JBaco7i.—T\iQ manner of pickling and smoking bacon 
differs somewhat from that of lean meat, even the thick- 
est pieces of bacon being thoroughly pickled in 8 days. 
The longer lean meat remains in the brine the more salt it 
will absorb, while fat meat, aCter it is saturated to a cer- 
tain degree, absorbs no more. While bacon can be pick- 
led in eight days, if necessary it may remain in brine any 
length of time without hurting it. While lean smoked 
lo.eat will keep good for a long time out of brine, bacon 
loses in quality the longer it is kept so, and different 
substances gathering on the outside gradually work their 
way through, until they not only discolor the bacon, but 
also gives it an unpleasant tasie. Bacon can be made 
from very fresh pork by rubbing the outside with salt and 
immediately smoking it. This method is the quickest 
way, but by pickling, it can be preserved much longer. 

How to JBoll Ham. — For boiling ham, a young pig is 
the best. For this purpose boil 1 lb. each of beef, pork, 
mutton and veal bones, all fresh, over the fire with 4 qts. 
of cold water. After they have boiled ^ hour the ham is 
put in the broth and boiled one hour and a half. The 
whole IS then removed from tlie stove and the ham left in 
the broth until quite cold. The ham can then be taken 
•out of the broth, the rind removed, and ground pepper 
strewn upon the fat side. Pickled beef is boiled in the 
•same manner. 

Garmshi)i(j of Meat. — In no other branch of business 
does cleanliness, neatness, aiKl the sieneral appearance of 
things become so necessary and commendable as in the 
butcher shop. Nothing recomnjends your meat more than 
the general appearance, which may often be made more 
pleasing to the eye by outer decor-itions. This ornament- 
ing of eatables is called garnishing. It is evident that 
only eatable articles are used for this purpose. For the 



18 ) 

garnishing of raw, chopped meat, lard, etc. , which is al 
ways put into dishes or plates and set upon the counter or 
in the show window, a wreath of fresh, green parsley is 
generally sufticient to ornament it, or ornamentation can 
be done with melted lard, pressed through a paper funnel, 
as described in stuffed pig's head. For garnishing of oth- 
er goods, such as pig's head, head cheese, etc., different! 
articles may be used, i. e. as mushrooms, cauliflower, 
Turkish wheat, green beans, cherries, plums, onions, crab 
shells, crab tails, divided boiled eggs, slices of beets, and 
many other smaller things. All the first named articles 
must be picked before using. This is done in the follow-;^ 
mg manner: After being boiled, they are put into fruit | 
jars. Then take wine vinegar, a little whole allspice, j 
j.epper, cloves, bay leaves, cinnamon, and lemon peel j 
ioiied together. Allow it to cool and pour over the arti- 1 
cles in the jars. The next day the jars are closed with a \ 
pig's bladder and put away for use. Or these ariiclef? can 
be procured all prepared at fancy grocery stores. Very 
much depends upon the tasteful arrangement and the sym- 
metrical grouping of the different articles, as a person 
will more frequently judge from the appearance of a thing, 
than from its inner value. Besides imagination has a 
great influence upon the taste, and the exterior appearance 
chough only a secondary matter, is still of the greatest 
importance. 

jSmoking Meats. — In warm weather it is absolutely nec- 
essary to prevent the smoke from reaching the smoking 
chamber too warm, consequently th'3 smoking chamber 
should be about 9 or 10 feet above the hearth or place 
where the fire is built; the meat to be smoked should be 
hung on poles, and these placed in the smoke house, hang- 
ing those that are to be smoked rapidly in the 
lower row, such as Knockers, Rocstwurst, etc., while sum- 
mer and liver sausage are hung farthest away. Oak or 
cedar sawdust must never be used in smoking meats. 
Hickory sawdust is the best. A few janijjer berries or 
juniper twigs are nice to add with the sawdust, as they 
impart a delicate flavor to the m,eat. While it i-^ advisa- 
ble to allow a current of fresh air to enter the smoke 
house at times, care must be taken in cold weathtr that 
the temperature does not fall too rapidly upon meat that 
\s not thoroughly smoked, for frost is detrimental to it. 



( 19 ) 

Seasoning Meats. — As people's tastes vary as regards 
eatables, it is impossible to manufacture goods that will 
nuit everybody. The aim thea should be, not to plea«e 
the individual, but lo prepare your meats so that they will 
please the majority of your customp.ra, as that which the 
majority considers good is generally taken for a standard. 
There is one error which butchers are apt to fall into — of 
oversalting and the excessive use of spices — which realiy 
spoil their meats rather than improve them; and again, 
Ihey always suggest the idea of their use as perhaps to 
hide something unpleasant in the meat. Yet, on the oth- 
er hand, an insufficient quantity of either will leave the 
Uneat with a flat and unpalatable taste that will soon spoil 
your entire trade. This one process of seasoning is, there- 
fore, a very im})ortant one, and not as thoroughly under- 
stood and practiced as it should be. 



VEAL SKINS. 

The time has arrived when it is only by taking off and 

caring for skms well, that butchers can realize satisfactory 

prices. The best skms are so cheap that the medium. and 

^inferior skins are hardly worth the tanning. Drawn off 

jor "listed" skins will always remain the most valuable. 

A few hints in regard to taking off skins with the ma- 
terials at hand in the ordmary slaughter house, adding, 
perhaps, the bellows. 

^^ Sticking.'''' — After knocking down the calf cut the jugu- 
lar vein so that the animal will be well bled; this improves 
the meat and also prevents a discoloiation of the skin. 
The incision should be made lengthwise of the neck, as 
the cheek ot the skin is of some value if not out crosswise, 
otiierwise it is pnly good for glue stock. After the calf 
has been strung up, stroke down the sides to prevent any 
blood from settling between the skin and the meat; it 
takes but a mxoment and will be noticed in the better ap- 
pearance It presents, besides taking the salt better in curing 

^'•Ilippingy — Make the slit from the middle of the un- 
der j tw over the brisket down the center of the belly be 
tween the teats and even an inch or two down upon the 
roots of the tail. As to the legs, much of the shape of the 
hide depends upon the way they are ripped. A piece of 
calf skin is worth YO cents per pound if choice and aver- 



(20) 

ages perhaps 3 ibs. It is easy to decrease its value 10 cts- 
per lb. if tiie legs are not cut properly. The correct way 
is as follows: 

Take hold of the foreleg with the left hand, cut around 
the leg just above the dew-claws, step back a step towards 
tlie tail to straighten the leg, drawing it a little away from 
the body, insert the knife at a point wbere the hoof is 
f-]jlit on the front or forward side of the foot; now care- 
fully run the knife directly over the knee so as to split it 
exactly in the center avoiding any side cuu or Fcaliops, ex- 
tend the slit to the top or center of the brisket l)one; serve 
the other foreleg in the same way. V\'hen this is done, 
grasp the hind foot in the left hand cutting around the 
same as on the front foot; step back towr'^i'ds the head to 
straighten the leg, insert the knife at the Isack side of the 
leg between the dew-claws, run it down cnrectly over the 
gambrel, then follow the line marked by the parting o£ 
the hair so that the slit runs where the hair parts, or more 
properly perhaps, where it meets; this line can usually be 
seen quite plainly; if this is followed the knife will strike 
the belly between the teats and the roots of the tail; do 
the same with the other leg and the skin will have a flat 
and even appearance when taken off. Now skin enoughj 
near the dew-claws to be able to take the skin m the hands 
and pull off from the leg without further use of the knife. 
The butcher must be able to do his work quickly, as the 
skin comes off much harder after the calf is cold. 

7Vie Head. — Some butchers do not skin the head think- 
ing it does not pay, or that they will scald the entire head 
with the skin, and then scrape off the hair; but the hkiu 
on the head is worth taking off with the balance of the 
hide, if the throat is not cut crosswise. Skin the head in 
the ordinary way to a point about four to seven inches 
back of the ear. Of course as much care is not necessary 
on the head; a few scores even are allowable on the best 
skins. 

SJdnning the Body. — The skinning of the body is the 
main feature of calf skinning, and butchers differ nn'.cii 
upon this point. One way is, after the preliminary work 
is done and the calf strung up, commence upon the left 
side of the belly and skin with the knife enough to gras}> 
the skin in tlie left hand, then cotumpnces the fisting off 
process. If it separates easily no instrument is necessary 



( 21 ) 

f, laowever, it adheres too closely to the meat, take a piece 
)f hard pine eight inches long and 2 inches wide with 
ounded edges and shaped like an ordinary table knife, 
ising it in place o£ a knife, making downward thrusts 
svitli the end of it as you would with a skinning knife. Tins 
7/ill take perhaps a little longer and a little more muscle 
/nan with a knife, but the hide will be nicer and free from 
Bcores. Some butchers say after having skinned well 
down the center of the back on one side of the calf, it is 
easy standing facing to thrust the right fist entirely around 
the calf and with one strong upward thr-icl entirely remove 
it from the hindquarteris; but be sure and not use a knife 
in doing this. When loose from the hindquarters it is 
then easy to pull it from the forequarter. 

Second Method. — After skining the head, hang up and 
make an incision in the belly about 2 inches long, take an 
ordinary steel and thrust it in between the skin and the 
meat, working it in all directions until the "skin is sepa- 
rated within reach of the steel, then apply the lips, or an 
ild-fashioned bellows, and fill the space with air, grasp 
yie opening with the left hand and strike with the palm 
if the right a faw blows upon the air confined inside. If 
lis is done quickly while the calf is still warm, the skin 
rill separate to a much greater extent than would be at 
/rst supposed. Now rip the legs and belly as in the first 
(uethod and finish the same. 

\ ^^ Curing.'''' — Never put a skin in pickle; it causes it to 
ji^^lump nicely at first, but an old tanner can tell it imme- 
diately, as it soon falls away — that is, the plumpness dis- 
appears and it can never be brought back again to its or- 
iginal fullness, but continues flat, and when made into 
(leather is not as good in quality and will not make as 
jnaiiy pounds from the same number of pounds of stock. 
Do not allow the skin to drop down into the blood, but 
keep it clean and away from the sun. Do not allow it to 
touch iron, as rust is fatal to any calf skin; but place it 
fiat u;')on the floor, sprinkle thoroughly with salt, being 
sure that every spot is covered; rub in thorougly. Place 
the next one on top of this and serve it in the same man- 
iier. Do not pilo more than one together until the ani- 
mal heat has left the hide. Skins in summer time shou'd 
never be left more than an hour before being salted. Af- 
ter the skins have lain in pack a week, they are ready to 



(22 ) 

ship, and should be shipped as soon as enough are ready 
to make 200 or 300 lbs., for the fresher the skin the bet- 
ter the leather. Good choice skins will sometimes aver- 
age as high as 95 cts. per ft)., though the commoner price 
is VO cts. Do not allow skins to lie until they have a pink- 
ish tinge, as they will be of an inferior grade. They 
show they have lain in }>ack too long. In tying up, fold 
the edges in and leave the hair side out, puttmg about 50 
lt)S. in each bundle, tieing stoutly with good twine. 



CHAPTER VI. 



CASIXGS. 

A great deal could be written about casings and the ins 
and outs of the trade. In the hands of reputable dealers, 
the trade is all risjht, but otherwise it is open to fraud. If 
goods are well cleaned, from good stock, and cured with 
a proper amount of salt, they are generally worth the 
money that is asked for them, but when you come to take 
i.hese same casings, repack and mix them with inferioli 
goods, oversalt and overweigh them, you have casings tha, 
can be sold for 25 per cent, less and pay a better profit 
Casings cannot be safely kept without being well salted 
but it is easy to overdo it with salt at 80c to $1 pe ' 
barrel. Casings are sold by the bunch and by the pouncf 
The latter way is better, as a keg will often vary 3 to (' 
Ifes. in the same number of bunches. ; 

/Sheep Casings — Are generally imported goods. Thej 
come from England, Holland, Victoria, New Z-^nland, 
South America and Russia. A great many American ca- 
sings are in the market, but are not suitable, being too 
teiider and too large. The best are from England, if 
siiictly selected. The Holland goods arc nearly the sam< 
The bulk of these two is consumed in the United Statesi 
Victoria casings are of medium size and are good. The 
l^ew Zealand, strong and of convenient size lor this mar- 
ket, but are not generally selected. South American cas- 
ings are but recently introduced here, but if improved will 
strongly compete with the other products, Russian cas- 
inga are dry salted and are l-arger and stronger than the 
others, but their making up is not suitable for tins mark- 
et, being m rings about 3 inches in diameter and 90 to 100 
feet in a ring. Thev have a slight flavor of being smoked 






( 23 ) 

,nd will stuff 90 to 100 Tbs. of meat. Further, the Rns- 

ian salt contains a large per cent, of lime, iron and sul- 

)hur, which rums the skin in a short time. A few fairly 

>'ood casings come from Canada and California, but 

he majority are poor and are used to mix with otb- 

irs. Tiie principal use of the American casing is for 

T'*mgs for different purposes. Sheep casings are used for 

^'•'enna (Weiner), Frankfort and Bratwuest sausages. The 

length of the intestine of a sheep is from 28 to 40 yard:?. 

About one-half of it is wide, the balance medium and 

larrow. The filling capacity of the best casing of a sheep 

.s about 20 lbs. of meat. There is usually trom 100 to 120 

yards in a bunch, and the animals must be from 3 to 6 jrs 

old to make prime goods. Sheep casmgs should stuff 60 

to 75 ibs. of meat to lib. of casings and tie into sausages 

holding about 4 oz. each. 

Hoff Casiiigs — Are the small intestines of hogs. To 

be good, should be well cleaned, of good, fair color, well 

salted; the choice is for medium. What is meant by that 

^s, the pick of casings from medium sized hogs. The 

^rgest and smallest are put into other brands and sold for 

*^iss money. The best casings should be from 4 to 6 mos. 

d; giving them time to become tough and well salted. 

'tedium will stuff per pound of casings from 30 to 40 fbs 

f meat. 

? Hog Bungs — Are the intestines from the stomach to 
, Le rectum, which is called the crown, and they are sold 
Jith or without the crown, and are used for summer and 
Aver sausage. Wesands are used for the same sausages. 

j JBeef Casings — Are used in larger and increasing quau- 
iities every year. These in the market generally are of 
jthree kinds. 

' Beef Hounds. — This is the small intestine of a beef, 
and should be from 1 to 1-^ inches in diameter, of a fair 
color, and smell perfectly sweet; no odor; are used most- 
ly for bologna sausage; will average to hold per lb. about 
SOibs. meat. 

/ JBeef Bungs — Are the large intestine from the stomach 
I to the smaller intestines of the beef; are from 3 to 4 inch- 
I es m diameter and should be of a fair color, but they 
1 smell slightly tainted; are used for bologna sausage, head 
f cheese, blood sausage and ham sausage; will average to 



(24) 

3ach pound of casings about 50ft)S. of meat. Are prefei 
[•ed by many for bologna, as they do not dry up so quick 
Middles — Are the intestines leading from the bung t 
the rectum; are larger than the rounds; are used for be 
logna and summer sausage; will hold to each lib. of cas 
ings about 30ft)S. of meat. Casings should be kept cove^^ 
Bd with salt, and never should be over 3 or 4 moiiths om 
as the salt is apt to make them rotten; should be kept ii 
a slightly moist place. Always soak casings well befor 
using. As to cleanliness of casings, there are not man^j 
who engage in the business ot cleaning casings who do no] 
make it a trade in itself, and do it properly. A sausao-J 
casing cleaned by a regular dealer is about as clean a thin| 
as there is. 

Ti-uff.es for Use in Sausage. — The truffle is an aromati(! 
plant which externally much resembles the potato; it ii 
much used for culinary purposes, and especially in the 
manufacture of sausage. The best of these come fron| 
France. While they may be obtained already prepared! 
yet it is well to know how to prepare them oneself. In 
fresh condition they will not keep long without spoilin? 
and are prepared as follows: Place the tiuffle in lukpwarj 
water, take each truffle out separately and clean it fro 
all dirt with a brush, and place it again in cold wat^ 
From this they are again cleaned the same as before, ai 
the operation repeated 10 or 12 times, using fresh wat^ 
each time until convinced that all the worm^ which md 
always are in them, have been removed. The truffles al 
then carefully peeled, cut through the center, and place 
in a kettle containing Bordeax wine; (to lib. truffles us' 
i bottle of wine;) the kettle i«. covered and its coi 
tents boiled for 5 minutes, being careful that the wine 
does not run over, which it is very apt to do. After re 
moving the kettle from the fire, in place of the lid tie a 
pig's bladder carefully over the top to make it air tighty 
or pour it into air tight cans and set it in a cool place. 
When treated in this way the truffles will keep for 3 o./; 
weeks. If wanted to keep longer, pour a sheet of swe 1 
oil over the whole. ? 

Jliyits to a Butcher — As to arranging his shop: Always 
suit yourself, but in doing this keep in mind your patron^; 
and suit them at the same time. Take the common shod) 



( 25 ) 

oom, 18 to 30 fecc wide, generally divided across, leav- 
ig a front and l);/.ok room. On oDe entire or both bides 
'ould be your quarter racks; above them many put in a 
ght rack, slanting forward for hams, dried beef, etc. The 
ounter across the shop can be either curved or straight. 
*ut your blocks back ot the counter, and the cooler, with 
,3tail window, as near the blocks ao can be had. Coolers 
ery often stand with only a part in the front shop. 0ft- 
n times cooler will set side to the front, with entrance and 
window at eads and piece rack against the side of the 
ooler. Arrange it to be the most canvenient. Have box- 
^s handy to put all bones and scraps in; never throw them 
m the floor. Have nice screen doors for your front en- 
hance and have wire over all openings to keep out flies 
\id insects. If you have a door or opening between the 
lont and back room, have it so you can close it; and if 
/ou want ventilation, use a screen door in summer. Keep 
jour ceilings and walls nicely whitewashed or papered. 
(t don't cost so much to neatly paper your ceiling, and it 
'ill add 100 per cent, to the looks of the shop, in the 
'^ntry a nice lamp or two suspended from the ceiling over 
\ counter adda; greatly to the general appearance of the 
)m. Keep your market clean and sweet. Never wait 
a customer with dirty Jiands or dirty clothes. An a- 
( m can be made of the cheapest material; if it is clean, 
^t is all that is wanted. Always remember one thing — 
-\t nine-tenths of your customers are women, that ihey 
ye quick eyes, and notice an untidy shop or a dirty 
k. A clean market and a clean man will attract their 
ntion and good will at once. It is time that the most 
ortant trade in the country sliould drop its dirty, care- 
3 ways, and better itself and the business by paying 
re attention to these things. There has been a great 
Miga in the last ten years, and if kept up for the next 
years, *'as clean as a butcher" will be a proverb. 



CHAPTER Vil. 

SAUSAGE AND MEAT EECIPES. 

\Blood Pudding No. 1. — Use the belly and cheek meat 

./one pig, (about 28 lbs«) fat and lean mixed, adding the 

J^iart. Boil, according to the age of the pig, from 1 to 

'fhoura, being careful not to cook too soft. Remove, and 



(26) 

cut into small cubes. Poar enough broth over to cov( 
it, so that the fat, which has gathered upon the surfat 
can be removed. When the meat is cleaned of all fat, ad 
to it 16 oz. of salt, 2 oz. ground majoram, 2 oz. groun 
allspice, 3 oz. ground pepper,^- oz. of ground cloves, ^ ox 
ground ginger. To tliis preparation add all the blood ol 
tained from the pig, after it has been pressed through > 
sieve, to expel any lumps. Mix all together thoroughly 
pour into casings, using a blood pudding funnel, and tie. 
Then place them in boiling water, or better still, the brotb 
in which the meat has been boiled; keep them in constant 
motion until they begin to swim, which is caused by the 
expansion of the air inclosed in them. They are then to 
be pricked with a fork to allow this air to escape. It this 
is neglected, the fat, which should be equally distributee 
through the whole sausage, will gather, in cooling off, at 
those places where the air was. The sausages are boiled 
until deal, transparent fat issues from them when pricked. 
They are then removed, immediately washed in cold wa- 
ter, and placed upon a clean board to cool and dry. Thes<' 
sausages are now ready for use and may be eaten whil^ 
still warm. They will not keep long in warm weathe/. 
tlierefore, if they are to be kept any length of time, the^ 
should be smoked about 8 days, and then kept in a mois. 
place until eaten. 

-Blood Padding JVb. 2. — Use cheek meat, heart, lungi^ 
and pork rmd in any quantity that is convenient. Cut thg 
pork rind into small pieces, boil in clean water until threu 
fourths done, saving the broth and rind. Cut the balance 
of the meat together quite line and boil it slowly with thd^ 
pork rind and broth, allowing the broth to cover the 
meat. Remove the fat that rises to the surface, as th^i 
sausage will not look well if it is left. Cook until done.[ 
Take 1 gallon of calves' or hogy' fresh blood immediately'*, 
after killing. Stir it in a vessel 10 to 15 minutes until itr 
will retain its fluid condition. Then pass through a fine • 
sieve to break up any lumns. Mix 15 lbs. of the cooked r 
meat as above with the 1 gallon of IjIoccI, and season to \ 
suit. Pour through a funnel into beef middle casings, ty, 
filling three-fourths full, the end being tied. Cut mtoX 
convenient lengths for sale. (Do not use stuffer.) Tie up ))] 
the open end. Now place the sausage in the broth and^ 
allow it to boil. The blood, in cooking, will expand and I 



{21 ) 

Rfll out the remaining part of the casing. Stir continually 
[)ir the blood will all collect in the lower side of the casing. 
VJ/^hen cooked, the sausage will rise to the top of the wa- 
i^v and float, caused by the expansion of the air. Wher- 
ejver air collects, pierce with a snaall tined fork, or fat 
W-ill fill these places. When of a good appearance, re- 
aiove and wash in clean cold water and allow it to remain 
l/here until cold. The sausage can be improved by smok- 
ing cold over a very low fire of shavings or sawdust. A 
i^'ot fire will cause it to sw^at and spoil its appearance. 

Gruetz Wurst^ or Grit Sausage. — Gruetz wurst is made 
t3ie same as blood pudding, and adding generally 3 parts 
D'f grits to one part of the blood sausage mixture. The re- 
quired salt and spices must be added. This sausage is 
treated the same as blood sausage, but is not adapted for 
smoking, and therefore must be eaten while fresh. A nice 
way to cook it is to fry in butter or lard. 

Tongue Sausage JSFo. 1. — Take 11 lbs. of flank, 6^^ ibs. 
of cheek, and 4|-ft)S. of shoulder meat from a young pig, 
together with 2^1bs. of fat, raw pork. Boil altogether -J- 
hour, remove and out in small cubes, then scald again in 
boiling water and add to this a mixture of lib. of finely 
chopped pig^s liver and 2 qts. of pig's blood, which has 
been pressed through a sieve; spice with the following: 
11 oz. of salt, 2 oz. ground pepper, 1 oz. ground allspice, 
^ oz. ground cloves, ^ oz. ground ginger, 1 oz. ground 
marjoram. Mix together thoroughly. Now cut 8 inches 
long, and distribute these as equally as possible through 
the sausage while stuffing. Tongue sausages are boiled 
the same as blood pudding. A large smoked sausage re- 
quires about f of an hour and a small one ^ hour for boil- 
ing. 

Toyigue Sausage JVb. 2. — llfbs. fat pork cut in small 
cubes mixed with 1ft). of raw, finely chopped pig's liver, 
and 1 pint of pig's blood, previously pressed through a 
sieve. Spice with 4-^ oz. salt, 1 oz. ground pepper, ^ oz. 
ground cloves, \ oz. ground ginger, and ^ oz. of crashed 
marjoram; mix the mass thoroughly. Then pour into ca- 
si|ngs, and treat the same as blood pudding, adding per- 
haps a well-pickled ox tongue, previously cut into narrow 
stirips. In place of ox tongue, a pickled pig's tongue or 
calf's tongue may be used. 



/ 

r 



( 28 } ^ 

Lung Blood Sausage. — This differs from the blood pad- 
ding only in having chopped, pig's lung mixed with the 
blood, after it has been been pressed through a sieve. A 
mixture of blood and lung is then used in the same pro- 
portion as if it were pure blood. Lung blood sausage is 
preferable to the common blood sausage, because it does 
not become hard and dry after smoking, and consequent- 
ly is more tender and agreeable to the taste. 

Liver Sausage.- -Take 2 pig livers, (to this 1 veal liver 
miy be added without harming the quality) cut into slices 
removing all the blood veins. Pour boiling water on th'e 
livers, and repeat the operation until the liver is freefd 
from all blood, and looks white and clean; usually 3 tim^3s 
would be sufficient. Now chop the livers quite hne, tbe^n 
add all the fat obtained from the intestines of 1 pig aftdr 
it has been boiled -J hour and chopped fine. Then add si^ 
lbs. of fat pork cut in small cubes, previously boiled ^ hiK 
and season with the following: 6 oz. of salt, 1 oz. ojf 
ground marjoram, ^ oz. of ground thyme, :|^ oz. of groun/li 
basilicum, ^ oz. of ground sage, 2 oz. ground pepper, 1 o|z. 
ground allspice. Stuff in narrow hog casings, and plaice 
in the hot meat broth used in preparing it; keep there a30 
minutes over a moderate fire without boiling. Large sai.u- 
sag.es will have to be kept longer. Unless clear bro*;h pr 
water is used, the sausages will not be white. While bolU- 
ing, they must be continually turned, lifted to the surface 
and pricked with a fork to preventfat from gathering. Af- 
ter removing them from the hot water, place them in cold 
water, allowing them to remain long enough to thorough- 
ly cool. After cooling, they are placed upon a clean 
board to give them the proper shape. They are then hung 
up for a day in summer, and from two to three days in 
winter before smoking, which requires about 6 days. Note 
— Livers can also be boiled whole, and grated upon a gra- 
ter. When Ibis is done, the veins are all taken out. \'o 
increase the quantity of sausages, a little veal, especialfiy 
from the head, is sometimes added. The kidneys may ial- 
so be used. j 

Eaisin Liver Sausage. — Take 3|- lbs. of pig's livets, 
prepared the same as in liver sausage. Chop with it i 
calf's brains, well cleaned and washed, and -^ dozen baker's 
rolls, soaked in water and then pressed dry; add 4 oz. of 
raisins, 4 oz. currant?, 4 o.t. peeled and coarsely chopped 



( 29 ) 

almonds, 4 oz. of fine white sugar and 3 medium 'sized on- 
ions, previously cut into pieces and browned in lard. These 
ingredients are thoroughly mixed, then stuffed in narrow 
hog casings. These sauRages are usually about 13 inches 
in length, and form a circle by tying the 2 ends together. 
They are treated the same as common liver sausage, but 
being smaller, they must not be boiled more than ^ of an 
hour. They are not smoked, but must be eaten while 
fresh, and will keep from 6 to 8 days in winter. If fro- 
zen, they will keep an indefinite length of time. 

Trvjjlc Zdcer Sausage. — Take 5-^ft)S. fresh pig's liver, 
prepared the same a$ in liver sausage, 2^ lb.s. of fat from 
the intestines, and 1 lb. of raw, fat pork; chop together 
fine, and ^ lb- prepared truffles, cut into narrow strip?. 
Season ^ith 3 oz. salt, 1 oz. ground pepper, and to this 
add 2 tablespoOiisi al of the wine in which the trufiies have 
been boiled and preserved. Mix all together carefully and 
stuff in hog casings. They are boiled the same way as 
liver sausage, requiring usually f hours. If air bubbles 
appear, prick with a fork. They are treated the same as 
in common liver sausage, and require about 4 days for 
smoking. Note — Other sipces besides those mentioned 
ought not to be used, as it will destroy the aroma of the 
truffle. 

Anchovy Liver /Sausage. — Take 5^ lbs, of scalded raw 
pig's liver, prepared the same as in liver sausage, 1 lb. of 
anchovy (a prepared herring) washed, and all bones and 
tail taken out, 2|- lbs. boiled veaL 1 lb. of lean, boiled 
pork from the shoulder, 3^ lbs. of boiled fat from the in- 
testines, all chopped together fine, and to this add 1-| lbs. 
ot raw, UA- pork cut in small cubes; mix with the rest, and 
chop again ^uita fine. Then add the following: 2 oz. salt, 
2 oz. ground pepper, 1-1 oz. ground thyme, 1-7 oz ground 
marjoram. Stuff in middle beef casings. They can then 
be treated exactly the same as liver sausage. 

Goose Liver Sausage. — Take 11 lbs. of pig's liver, clean- 
ed and prepared tbe same as in liver sausage; 3^ lbs. veal, 
boiled soft, 5^ lbs. boiled fat from the intestines and 2-| 
lbs. of fat, raw pork, chopped fine. Season with the fol- 
lowing: 6 oz. salt, 2 oz. gr- and pepper, \ oz. ground all- 
spice, ^ oz. ground mace, -^ oz. of cassia bud, |- oz. ground 
thyme, and \ oz. of ground marjoram. Mix thoroughly, 
addinar perhaps 1 qt. water, if the mixture is too sti^. 






( 30 ) I 

Now take 5|- lbs. of goose liver, previously soaked about !, 
2 hours in clear, cold water, and cut into cubes 1 inchi 
square. TJieee are added to the sausage mass, the whole / 
nnxed well and poured in hog's bungs by means of a fun- , 
nel. After tying, the sausages are pricked with a fork be- | 
fore boiling to prevent them from bursting, which they , 
otherwiee would very likely do. The boiling, cooling and ) 
smoking should be followed the same as with liver sau- 
sage. 

Ti-u.ffie Goose lAver Sausage. — Take 5^ log. of pigs' liv- { 
er, cleaned and prepared the same as ia livei sausage, 3-^ ^ 
lbs. of boiled fat from the intestines, 2|- Tbs. of raw, fat 
])ork, 5-|- lbs. ot well soaked goose liver; chop altogether ; 
fine, and add 2-^ lbs. more of goose liver cut in cubes 1 in. ; 
square. To this add 5 oz. of salt, 2 oz. ground pepper, 
and 11 lbs. of prepared truffles cut in small cubes. Stuff 
in hog bungs, boil and cool, the same as in plain liver 
sausage. 

False Liver Sausage. — Take 4-J-lbs. of boiled ^aot^Ji meat, 
4|^ lbs. of Hank meat, (both from a good pig) 3^ lbs. of 
fat from the intestines, 2|- lbs. of boiled veal, 6 small on- 
ions fried in lard, and 2-|ros. of lean pork; chop altogeth- 
er fine, and add 5 oz. of salt, 1 oz. of ground white pep- 
per. Mix together thoroughly and stuix tightly in beef 
middles. After being tied, they are boiled in clear water 
or better, in meat broth, for about ^ hour over a moderate 
fire. After removing, they shordd be cooled in sever- 
al changes of cold water. They can then be hung in a 
cool place, where they can be kept for several weeks with- 
out bein£ smoked. 

Brain Sausage. — Mix with the brains of 2 calves which 
have been freed of all skin and washed clean, 1 lb. of lean 
and -J- lb. of fat pork, previously chopped fine. Season 
with 5 raw, grated onions, 1 oz. of salt, and ^oz. of ground 
pepper. This mixture is stuffed in beef rounds, and boil- 
ed in clear water tor 5 minutes. They should then be 
kept in a cool place until ready for use. 

Head Cheese No. 1. — Take 11 lbs. of rind from the bel- 
ly, upon which \ inch of fat has been left, and 2 pork 
shanks, both of which have been boiled until quite tender 
cut into pieces about 1^ inches long, and add 5 oz. salt, 2 
oz. of ground pepper, and 1 oz. of whole caraway seed. 



(81 ) 

jMix together, aad stuff in bladders or bungs. They must 
\theix be boiled from -J- to f hours, according to the size. 
After boiling, they can be pressed with a weighted board, 
jthua giving them a flat appearance. If they are smoked 
they should not remain in the smoke house longer than 5 
days, or they will become quite hard. If they are to be 
used fresh without smoking, the grated rind of a lemon 
may be added. 

Head Cheese No. 2. — Take from a hog 8f ibs. of flank 
meat, fat and lean, 3f ib^. from the shoulder. To this add 
3f ft)s. of pickled veal from the round, and 6 pickled 
calves' or pigs' tongues, boiled, but not too tender; cut all 
into strips and add 12 oz. lean and 6 oz. of fat, raw, chop- 
ped pork, 6 small onions chopped fine and fried in butter, 
then season with 2 oz. of salt, 1 oz. of ground pepper and 
a very little grated lemon peel. This mixture is stuffed 
in pig's bladders or bungs; is boiled \ hour, and then 
treated the same as Head Cheese No. 1. 

Italian Pork Sausage. — Take 4|- lbs. of raw, lean pork 
from the shoulder, 4^- lbs. of boiled and pickled salt pork, 
^^ lbs. of raw veal from the round, 1 lb. of sardines with 
all bones removed; chop all together fine and add 2^ lbs. 
of raw, fat pork cut in small cubes. Season with 8 oz. of 
salt, 2 oz. of ground pepper, 4 oz. of capers, and 4 oz. of 
Pistachio nuts peeled and boiled in wine. After mixing 
the whole thoroughly, add 6 pickled and boiled tongues, 
cut into narrow strips. Stuff m beef bungs. In boiling 
this sausage, it should be wrapped in a cloth, and twine 
wound its whole length, and allowed to cook for 1 hour, 
Then remove to a cool place for 24 hours. A tasty way 
of garnishing this sausage is by using a coating of colored 
or uncolored lard, and ornamenting with powdered eagar, 
or small sugar cakes. 

Knockers. — Take 11 lbs. of raw, lean pork meat from 

the shoulder, 2^ lbs. of raw beef, and 4-J lbs. of fat pork. 

Chop all together very fine and add 6 oz. salt, 2 oz. ground 

pepper, \ oz. of saltpetre, 1 oz. of caraway need. Mix 

well together and stuff in hog casings. Immediately after 

it is made it should be hung in an airy place for 4 or 5 

days; after becomicg quite dry, should be smoked for 6 

J days. It is then ready for use and should be kept in a 

A cool and well ventilated place. Note — If agreeable, some 

/ \ finely chopped garlic can be added to this sausafiQ. 

\ 



( 32 ) 

Itoestwurst. — Take llibs. of raw, lean pork, 4|- fba. of 
good veal from the round, 3^ ibs. of fat pork, all chopped 
together fine. Add 6 oz. salt, 2 oz. ground pepper; mix 
well, adding 1 qt. of clear, cold water. Stuff in narrow 
hog or sheep casings. After tying the ends together, they 
are divided in the middle and twisted there, thus forming 
a two-link sausage from the original. They should then 
be smoked thoroughly for 24 hours. Should not be kept 
longer than 8 days, as they become hard and dry. They 
are prepared for use by putting them in boiling water for 
3 or 4 minutes. 

Saucisse. — These small sausages are made the same as 
Roestwurst with the addition of a little good wine, and a 
little grated lemon peel, in which case they must be eaten 
while fresh. If desired, a little cardamon seed may be 
add^d. Only the smallest sheep casings are used for this 
sausage. 

PorJc Sausage. — To make a good pork sausage, use a- 
bout 45 ihs. of lean pork, and 12 lbs. of fat pork; chop 
together fine; add 12 oz. salt, 2 oz. ground pepper; mix 
together thoroughly and stuff in narrow hog casings. If 
these sausages are for immediate use, they are greatly im- 
proved by adding a little cardamon seed, and a sm.all quan- 
tity of grated lemon peel. The proper way to cook them 
for the table is to fry brown in butter, which can be done 
in about three minutes. Pork sausages are very apt to 
burst in cooking. To avoid this, dip them into boiling 
water before frying. 

Summer Sausage. — 11 lbs. of lean, raw beef, 6|- ibs. of 
fat, raw pork; chop together moderately fine, and season 
with 6 oz. salt, 2 oz. ground pepper, and ^ oz. of whole 
coriander seed. Mix well together, adding about 1 gill of 
water, and stuff into beef rounds. The ends of these sau- 
sages are tied together. Smoke for 48 hours, and, if kept 
in an airy, cool place, they will remain good for at least 2 
weeks, in any kind of weather. When ready to be eaten 
they should be boiled for about 10 minutes. 

Stmuner Sausage. — To equal parts of good beef and 
lean pork, add ^ of the amount of fat pork. Trim the 
beef free from sinews and beef fat; chop fine: then add 
the lean pork; chop again and add the fat pork in small 
sQuares. Chop until well mixed, adding salt and pepper 



/ 



( 33 ) 

to suit the taste. Stuff into hog bungs or beef middle ca- 
sings very tightly and hang in the open air 4 or 5 days. 
Smoke very slowly 3 to 5 days. To remove the white ap- 
pearance that tbey sometimes have after being kept awhile 
lub with a cloth saturated with fat. This sausage may be 
kept from 4 to 6 weeks in winter time. By making sum- 
mer sausage the same as above, but allowing the meat to 
be very coarse, it is called Salami. It will remain good 
perhaps a greater length of time. Care should be taken 
not to allow any unfilled places in the sausage casing, and 
no water should be added. Casings to be used for sum- 
mer sausage should be thorougly washed and soaked in 
water 24 hours before using, to entirely remove the salt. 

Westphalien Sausage. — Take 11 ft>s.of lean pork, 3^ lbs 
of fat pork, both raw. Ci.fc these into very small cubes, 
and add 6 oz. salt, 2 oz. ground pepper; mix thoroughly. 
Stuff into narrow hog casings, tying the ends together, 
and hang in a cool, dry place for a few days before smok- 
ing. Should be smoked about 8 days. After this they 
can be kept in an airy place for a long time, and may be 
eaten raw with bread, or boiied, or fried with vegetables. 
They may be also eaten while fresh, if cooked. 

Salami. — 11 lbs, good lean beef, freed from all sinews, 
3^ lbs. of lean pork, 3^ lbs. fat pork; chop all together 
fine, and add 8 oz. salt, 2 oz. ground white pepper, ^ oz, 
powdered saltpetre, and ] glass of Rhine wine, in which 4 
pieces of garlic have beeii soaked for 24 hours. Mix to- 
gether thoroughly and stuff mu large casings, bungs or 
bladders. Hang in the open air for 2 or 3 weeks, and 
then smoke from 10 to 12 days. Note — If Rhine wine is 
not obtained, good rum will answer. 

Frankfort Sausage. — 11 lbs. of lean, b^ lbs. of flank, 
and 2^ lbs of very fat pork. Chop together moderately 
fine, adding 1 lb. of finely-chopped veal. Season with 5 
oz. of salt, 2^ oz. of ground white pepper; add 1 quart of 
water. Mix together well, and stuff in narrow liog cas- 
ings. These sausages are divided every 6 inches and 
twisted there, thus forming links. They are dried in an 
airy place, and then smoked for 48 hours. Before eating 
they are placed in boiling water for 5 minutes. If kept 
long, they become too dry for boiling, but m that case 
they are quite good eaten raw with bread. 



( 8* ) 



Weinet'wurst, or Vienna Sausage No. l.~ -2-| lbs. of rea' j 
jhoppcd fine, 11 lbs. of streaked and 1 lb. of fat pork, all 
jbopped together fine. Season with 5 oz. salt, 1 oz. ground 
lyhite pepper; mix together thoroughLyj adding 1 quart of 
ivater, and stuff in narrow hog casings. Tbefy snoald be 
iivided and twisted the same as any link sausage. Three 
minutes boiling will suffice to cook them. 

WeiiiejtDurst JVb. 2. — To 18 lbs. of veal, add 72 lbs. of 
lean and 10 lbs. of fat pork. Chop finely and mix well, 
idding 32 oz. of salt, 10 to 12 oz. of ground whit^ pepper 
[if black, ^ more) \^ pints of water. Stuff and tie into 
sausages weighing 4 oz. each; smoke 48 hours. Wein- 
erwurst may be made from salted or pickled meats the 
mme as from fresh. Garlic may be added if liked. Pota- 
to flour causes the meat to adhere together and allows u- 
sufficient quantity of water to be added to make dry meat> 
iuore moist and palatable. 

Welneriourst JVb. 8. — To 5 lbs. of lean pork, add 2^ lbs. 
of beef and 1 lb, of fat pork. Chop finely and add ^ lb. 
!)f veal to every 100 lbs. of meat. Add from f to 1 lb. of 
seasoning and 2 to 5 lbs. of best German potato flour, 
which will allow the addition of considerable water. Mix 
well and stuff into best English casings. Divide the sau- 
sages into equal parts and hang in an airy place for half 
an liour to dry. Smoke half an hour over a light tire, and 
finally an additional hour over a strong hot fire. Boil 5 
minures before being eaten. Weiner sausages will not 
keep long without becoming dry and unpalatable. 

Fork Sausage. — Take 2 parts of lean and 1 part of fat 
pork, chop together tine, and season with 1 teaspoonful of 
ground pepper, 1 teaspoonful of salt, and 8 of powdered 
sage to each 1 lb. of meat. Make into a large loaf, plac- 
ing the same upon a clean, fiat dish. It is then ready for 
sale in any quantity. 

Extra Porh Sausage. — Take lean meat — shoulders are 
the nicest — add from ^ to |- more of fat meat, according 
to taste. Chop the whole fine, adding 2 lbs. of salt to 100 
lbs. of meat. Season to suit — 20 oz. of ''Bell's" season- 
ing in 100 lbs. of meat giving the best results. Stuff in 
narrow iiog casings — not too tight. If the sausage is to 
bs used immediately, a very little of cardamonand ground 
lemon peel will add to the flavor. Potato flour is often' 



\ 



(85) 

used in pork sausage, and preservaline, preservative or so- 
W salt will keep it much better. 

Cervelat Pork Sausage. — Take 11 lbs. of firm, lean pork 
free from all sinews, and 3^ lbs. ot fat pork; chop togeth- 
er fine. Season with 5 oz. of salt, -^ oz. pulverized saltpe- 
tre, 1 oz. ground pepper, and \ oz. of whole pepper. INlix 
well together, and stuff into beef middles, stuffing quite 
tightly. The sausage is tied at the end, and remains 
straight. Should be kept in a cool, airy plac-e for about 
12 days, and tiien be smoked from 6 to 8 days. After 
smoking they should be kept in a moist room. If, after 
a long time tliese sausages become white on the outside, 
rub them with a woolen cloth dipped in a liitle lard until 
they appear glossy again. In winter they can be kept 
without smoking, 5 or 6 weeks. If this sausage is made 
of coarsely chopped meat, it will keep juicy a greater 
length of time. 

Breahfast Sausage. — Chop 2 lbs. of lean pork, and add 
to it a teaspoonful of powdered sage leaves, teaspoonful of 
salt and b. \ oi black pepper; mix thoroughly and form in- 
to small cakes: put a tablespoonful of dripping into a fry- 
ing pan, when hot cover the bottom oi the pan with the 
sausage cakes, fry until nicely browned on both sides, re- 
move them from the pan, add a tablespoonful of flour to 
the fat remaining in the pan, mix, add a half pint of milk; 
stir until it boils, season with salt and popper, and pour 
over the sausages. 

Cervelat Beef Sausage. — Take 22 lbs. of lean beef, rub- 
bed perfectly dry with a clean cloth, 13 lbs. of fresh fat 
pork; chop together quite fine, and add 12 oz. salt, 1 oz. 
of pulverized saltpeter, 2 oz ground pepper and \ oz of 
whole pepper. Mix sogether and stuff in middle casings 
as solid as possible. Should be tied at the end and remain 
straight. Hang in a dry place for 8 days and smoke for 
6 days. They should then be kept in an airy place. In 
winter time this sausage will remain good for 6 weeks af- 
ter sm'oking. Note — To give tliis sausage a nice red col- 
or, the salt, together with the saltpetre, is heated, and 1-30 
oz. of cochineal is added to each pound of the mixture of 
salt. If the sausage is made of good meat as directed, 
this coloring is not necessary. It is used only where poor^ 
er meat is worked up. 



( 86 ) , . 

Ooose Cervelat Sausage. — 11 lbs. of beef and 2 lbs. of 
suet are chopped together quite fine, adding 6 oz. of salt 
and 2 oz. ground white pepper. A few drops of Madeira 
wine, in which a little garlic has soaked for 24 hours may 
be added. The addition of the chopped lean meat of a 
roasted goose also improves the taste of this sausage. 
When the meat and spices have been thoroughly mixed, 
stuff in beef middles, tying the ends. They should then 
remain straight. 

Homeopathic Cervelat Sausage. — 22 lbs. of beef, com- 
<7lateh freed from all sinews, and wiped dry with a clean 
cloth, is chopped quite fine, and 9 lbs. of fat meat added. 
Both are chopped again. This must be mixed thoroughly 
with 10 oz. of kitchen salt, and stuffed into beef middles. 
The ends are tied., and the sausage kept straight. They 
should be kept in an airy place until they have become 
quite firm, when they are ready to be eaten. If kept in a 
cool place they will remain good for at least a year. 

Tenderloin Sausage, — Take the tenderloins, cut them as 
near the shape of a sausage as possible, rub with hot salt 
and place for 2 weeks in a vessel containing a solution of 
lY oz. of salt boiled in 5 pints of water; remove, wash 
and stuff tightly in beef bungs. Smoke for 2 weeks. 
- Beef Sausage. — Chop 1 lb. of uncooked beef and ^ lb 
of suet, mix and add a teaspoonful of salt, \ teaspoonful 
of white pepper and J teaspoonful of sage, mix again, 
make into small round cakes and dredge with flour. Put 
2 tablespoonsful of dripping in a frying pan, add a slice 
of onion, cook until the onion turns a delicate brown,then 
fry the cakes quickly on both sides and serve very hot. 

Beef Sausage.- -Take 6 lbs. of lean beef and 8 lbs. of 
suet; chop together and season with sage, allspice, pep- 
per and salt. Stuff m beef rounds. 

Bologna Sausage No. 1. — Use lean, fresh meat—trim- 
mings and cheek meat. Hearts may be added if th^ do 
not exceed I of the rest. Chop together very fine. While 
chopping, add spices and seasoning, and from 32 to 36 oz 
of American salt, or 6 oz. less of Liverpool. To every 100 
lbs. of beef add 5 lbs. of pure fat, either fresh or salted 
])ork. When the beef is nearly chopped, add from 1 to 
1^ lbs. of the best potato flour and sufficient water to suit. 
Mix thorou2hlY. Stuff in beef rounds, middles or bun^s, 



( a"? > 

though the rounds are more generally used. Tie the ends 
together into rings 24 inches long. Smoke with hickory- 
wood and hickory sawdust if possible, as that gives a bet- 
ter color and flavor. Remove when colored. Cook in 
boiling water. When the bologna is done it will rise to 
the top. 2 lbs. of the Stephen's bologna spice to 100 lbs. 
c^f meat is the best and cheapest seasoning that can be 
used. This contains no salt. 

Bologna. /Sausage No, 2, — To TO lbs. of beef add 40 lbs. 
of raw, fat pork; chop together and add 27^ oz. salt, V oz 
ground pepper, 2 oz. ground coriander, stuff in beef 
rounds, smoKe for 48 hours, and they will keep at any 
time of the year at least 2 weeks. To cook them it will 
require about 10 minutes. 

Extra Bologna Sausage,— JJse equal parts of tresh beef and 
fresh pork. Add to this one-tenth of the amount of ba- 
con. Chop together finely, adding seasonings to suit. To 
every 8 lbs. of meat, use 1 oz. of good salt. In adding 
potato flour, use 2 oz. of the best flour to 1 lb. ot meat; 
and instead of using water, take the broth used in cook- 
ing beef bologna or in cooking meats for bologna. Stuff 
into middles from 10 to 12 inches long and hang up to be 
smoked. Smoke from 2 to 12 hours, according to fire and 
taste. If made right, this bologna will keep 2 weeks in 
any ordinary weather. Seasoning with spices. To every 
100 lbs. of meat add 16 oz. of the best Singapore pepper 
and 2 oz. ground coriander. 

Mead Cheese No. 1. — Take 1 head that has been in brine 
for 2 weeks, with 1 head fresh; add 1 heart, 1 brisket, 1 
iamb or mutton head if you wish. Boil until the bones 
come off easily. Then chop moderately fine, add pepper 
and salt for seasoning. Stuff bungs or muslin bags as full 
as jou can with the hands; lie ends; lay on boards and 
press with light pressure. 

Ile^d Cheese No. 2. — The head of the hog, the rind of 
the sides on which the fat has been left \ inch thick, and 
neckpieces, are usually made into headcheese. Cook 
thoroughly and cut into strips of from 1 to 1^ inches in 
length, mix with it 6^ oz. salt, 2 oz. ground pepper, \\ oz. 
whole caraway seed, and if intended for immediate use, 
the grated rind of 1 lemon. The whole is to be well 
mix'd. Stuff in hog's stomach or bladder. Cook from i 



y 



( 88 ) 

to \ of an Lsur. Remove and place between two flat 
boards, on the 'op o\ which place a 50lb. weight. This 
will give them the flat appearance wanted; remove the 
weight after 24 hours. Head cheese may also be smoked, 
but if left to be smoked 4 or 6 days they become hard. 

Bead Gheese^Xo. ^.—Take 28 lbs. of side and 28 lbs. of 
fat and lean neck meat from a hog, 58 lbs. pickled veal 
cut from the leg, 12 pjckled calves' or hogs' tongues, all of 
Which' is to be cooked and cut into strips and mixed witls 
10 \])S. of lean and 6 lbs. of chopped pork, 20 slices of 
onion wh^ch has previously been fried in butter, 18 oz. 
Halt, 9 oz.' ground pepper, 1 ground lemon peel. Stuff in 
hogs' bladdery, boil 1 hour, and treat as in head cheese No. 1. 

HeMl Cheese N'o. 4- — Have the head nicely cleaned and 
l>oil it until very tender. Chop quite fine, and season 
while hot with salt, pepper, sage, and a little clove. Put 
ifl a deep dish and cover with a plate that is smaller than 
the dish, that it may rest on the meat. Place on the plate 
a very heavy weight, and let it stand for 4 hours. This 
makes the famous hogs' head cheese. 

Mosaic. — Use 2^ lbs. fat and 4^ lbs. lean meat from a 
hog, 4^ lbs. raw veal, 2^ lbs. lean, raw mutton, 2^ lbs. 
lean, raw beef, and 2^ lbs. raw salt pork; chop all togeth- 
er fine and 1 lb. sardines, freed from all bones, and tail 
removed. To this mass add i lb. Pistachio nuts boiled in 
^ bottle of wine, and freed front all shells. Season with 
5 oz. salt, 1 oz. ground white pepper, ^ oz. of mace, ^ oz. 
cardamon, 3 medium sized grated onions, and the yolks of 
G eggs. Kead the whole together w^ell. This mass is now 
used as if it were mortar between the following ingredi- 
ents that form the mosaic. These are: 2^ lbs. pickled 
boiled pork cut into long strips, 1 pickled boiled beef 
tongue, 6 pickled boiled pigs' tongues, 1 slice of summer 
sausMge 1 ^- inches thick (casing removed) 1 slice of blood 
puddiiig, 1 slice of good liver sausage, 1 slice of boiled 
ham, 1 lb. of dried beef; all of the above cut the size of 
the piece of summer sausage. If desired, deer or rabbit 
meat may be used. To unite these articles, a bladder is 
usually chosen, and into it a tlyer of chopped meat is 
placed. Upon this a layer of the slices of meat is laid in 
such €1 manner that they will lie parallel to each other. 
Then again, a layer of filling and layer of slices. Arra -^o 
4hem in the most varieg^ated order possible. Repeat this, 



( 89 ) 

being careful that the spaces between are carefully filled 
until the whole is used. The bladder isnow'wrapped in 
linen, twine wound around it tightly, and the whole*boil- 
ed for 1^ hours. It is then put into cold waler for 10 min- 
utes, and then removed to a cool place, to set, for ^4 hours 
after which the linen may be taken off, and the bladder 
with its contents coated with lard and garnished. It is 
generally served with the following sauce: Take the yolks 
oS 4 hard boiled eggs rubbed fine, ^ lb. of finely chopped 
sardines, 2 oz. good mustard, 1 medium sized grat,ed onion 
a little grated lemon peel, a little sugar, -^ pint of w.ine vin- 
egar, and 2 tab'espoonsful of sweet oil, rubbing the whole 
together thoroughly and pressing through a fine si(!ve. 

Jelly Sausage No, I.— Take 44- lbs- of pork rind with a Ut- 
ile fat upon it, 1 beef snout, 8 calves' feet, 3 pork s,lianks, 
8^ lbs. veal. Boil all together until quite tender, remove 
all the bones, and chop fine. Then add 1 qt. of wine vin- 
egar, 1 oz. salt, ^ oz. ground pepper, i oz. allspice, ^ oz. 
caraway seed, -^ oz. cardamon, and the finely chopped peel 
of 2 lemons. After mixing thoroughly, this mass is 
boiled in an earthen dish for about 2 minutes. It is then 
poured into another dish the shape of which the sausage 
18 to take. It should be allowed to cool until it forms a 
jelly, which usually takes about 24 hours. Is then cut in 
slices and served, and usually eaten with vinegar, oil and 
onions, - - — 

Jelly Sausage No. 2.— T&ke from a tender pig the belly 
and neck rind with about ^ inch of fat upon |t, boil, but 
not too soft. Then place a square piece of linen over a 
round dish kept for this purpose in such a manner that it 
extends over the dish about the length of its diameter. A 
layer of the rind is now placed upon the linen in the dish 
with its fleshy side upward. Then take the thick shanks 
of a pig, and half of a pig's head, boiled very tender, but 
not so that it will fall to pieces, and cut into long, thin 
strips; (a few pickled calve's' oj" pigs' tongues can also be 
added.) A mixture of 2 oz. saljt", 1 oz. ground pepper, ^ oz 
of caraway seed and a finely chopped lemon peel is used 
for seasoning. When thij is prepared, a layer of cut meat 
is placed upon the layer Of pig's rind in the dish and some 
of the spices sprinkled 0^ it. Then another layer of 
meat is added, and sprinkled in the same manner. Reneat 



this process until all the meat and spices have been used. 
Of course care must be taken that the spices are equally 
distributed throughout the meat. Now take some of the 
remaining belly and neck rind and cover the whole with 
it, placing the fleshy side down. The ends of the cloth 
are then tied closely over the whole and the filled cloth is 
hang in a kettle of boiling water for 2 hours, when it is re- 
moved and placed under a weighted board. Alter 24 hrs. 
the cloth can be taken off, and the jelly ig ready for use. 
With this jelly, which may also be garnished, the sauce 
described in common stuffed pig's head No. 1, may be used. 

Jelly JPle. — Take 1 pig's head, 3^ lbs. rind from the bel- 
ly, 12 calves' feet and sj lbs. veal. Boil together until 
quite tender. Remove all bones and chop fine; after which 
])Our this mass in an earthen dish. Pour 1 quart vinegar 
over It, and add 1 oz salt, ^oz ground pepper, ^ oz ground 
cardamon, \ oz ground cloves, ^ oz cjround coriander, ^ oz 
caraway seed, and the finely chopped peel of 2 lemons. 
jNIix well aud boil for a short time in the aforesaid earthen 
dish. Have readv a form made of tin, upon the shape of 
which much of the appearance of the pie depends. Line 
this form with mixed pickles of cauliflower, Turkish wheat, 
mushrooms, small green beans, capers, small onions,green 
plums, small gherkins and sour cherries. Arrange them 
in variegated patterns v/ith as much taste as possible: 
Place thin slices of lemon in a circle upon the bottom,fill 
ihe space in the center in the shape of a star, using some 
of the pickled articles for it. Now red jelly is carefully 
poured over this with a spoon so that the design will not 
be disturbed. When it has become cool, the meat jelly 
which has also cooled somewhat, is poured into the form, 
or sevsral such arranged the same way, and is then set in 
a cool place for 24 hours. After that the form is held in 
boiling water for :|^ of a minute, and then Inverted upon a 
large dish or clean board, when the mold is easily remov- 
ed. This must be done quickly, so that the jelly will keep 
its perfect appearance. The sauce used for garnishing is 
made as follows; 1 pint of wine vinegar, \ oz whole cin- 
namon, ^ oz cassia buds, ^ oz whole cloves. Boil togeth- 
er in an earthen dish for 10 minutes, then strain. To this 
add|- oz. red and ^ oz white gelatine; twirl all together. 
For use, this jelly must be only warm enough to just flow. 
The sauce described is Mosaic can also be used. 



( 41 ) 

Meat Pie. — Take 4 lbs. raw, lean pork, 2|lb8. raw veal, 
2^ lbs. raw beef, 2^ lbs. fat raw pork, 11 lbs. sardines, 
freed from all bones, the whole chopped together fine, and 
season with 4 oz. capers, 4 oz. salt, 1 oz. ground white peji- 
per, ^ oz. ground cardamon, the chopped peel of 2 lemons, 
and the yolks ol 6 eggs. The whole is kneaded into a 
firm dough and a little grated wheat bread added. A tin 
or earthen form is greased on the inside with butter, the 
the dough pressed into it, butter thickly spread over the 
top and gnited wheat bread strewn upon this. The whol • 
is now put in the oven and baked. While baking, it shouLl 
be basted often with butter, and more crumbs be added. 
When cool, the pie will easily come out of the form, and 
can be garnished with lard and parsley, as in stuffed pig^' 
head. 

Italian Meat Pie. — Use 1 pig's liver, prepared as in liv- 
er sausage, 1 lb. of fat and 1 Jb. of lean, raw pork, all 
i!liopp( d together very fine. Season with 2 oz, salt, ^ oz. 
jjTouiid pepper, and the yolks of 6 raw eggs; the whole 
mixed well together. Now cut into broad strips, add 8^ 
lbs. of goose liver, and ^ lb. of prepared truffles. The in 
side of a tin or earthen form is then greased with lard, and 
into this a layer of the mixture is placed, then a layer of 
the goose liver, with truffles strewn upon it. This is re- 
peated until all of the mixture is used, leavinsj the upper 
layer of meat. It is not necessary to make the la; is very 
ihin, as generally 2 layers of goose liver are suflioient for 
the whole. The pie is now baked the same as a common 
cake. When done, which can be told by piercing it with 
a clean broom straw, (the dough sticking to the straw if 
not done) the pie is taken from the oven and entirely cov- 
ered with melted lard, several pounds of the same being 
required. It is then set in a cool place, where it must re- 
main for ^4 hours. The tin form may be removed by 
holding for a few seconds in boiling water and invertirig 
upon a flat dish. The pie can be gnrnished with colored 
or uncolored lard, the same as pigs' head. 

Puff Paste Pie. — The puff paste of this pie can be ob- 
tained irom a confectioner, or may be made as follows: — 
Use very iirm, unsalted butter if possible. Wash it several 
times until all particles of salt and milk are removed. Then 
roll into a layer about ^ an inch thick, trim square and 
idace in clear, cold water, letting it remain some time; 



( 42 ) 

Now take 1 lb. of butter and 1 lb. wheat flour, both oi 
which have been in a cool place. Mix with these the yolk 
of 1 egg and a little cold water, knead the whole into a 
dough, which must be of the eame consistency as the flat 
piece of butter. To effect this, the water should be add- 
ed gradually and in small quantities. Knead the whole 
until the surface of the dough appears quite smooth. Af- 
ter this is accomplished, the dough is laid upon a bread 
board strewn with flour, and rolled into a flat piece twice 
the size of the first piece of butter. Now take the square 
piece of butter which has been carefully dried, and place 
it diagonally upon the dough, that is, so that the sides of 
the butter are turned towards the corners of the dough. 
Then bring the corners of the dough over, and entirely 
cover the butter. Turn the whole mass so that the upper 
side lies next the board strewn with flour. Tbe whole is 
now rolled out again to half the thickness of the finger. 
Care must be taken that it keep its rectangular form. Fold 
a little less than ^ of it upon itself, and then the re- 
maining part a.gain over this. KoU the whole out again 
to the game thickness as before, and repeat the operation 
of rolling out and folding several times. Thu8 tlie puff 
paste is ready for use, and is composed of alternate layers 
of butter and dough. For puff paste pie of goose liver, 
the nicest and largest goose livers are chosen. Cut them 
into two slices the thickness of the fino;er. These are then 
stuffed with pieces of prepared truffles the size of a hazle- 
nut. Take 3 slices of puff paste made as above, of which 
one is exactly the size of the liver slice and the other two 
a trifle larger; upon one ot the larger slices of puff paste 
))lace a slice of goose liver and upon this the small bUcq 
of puff paste, then the other goose liver slice, and lastly 
the second large slice of paste. The edges of the upper 
and lower puff paste are now pressed together, the whole 
forming a pie, which is then baked. 

Liver Pie. — For this pie, only the very latest fat goose 
livers should be used, and they should weigh at least 2-^ 
lbs. each. A soup tureen is used in making this pie. Take 
the goose liver, and cut into 2 or 3 flat slices, stuff these 
wiih 4 oz. of prepared truflSes, then \ lb. lean, raw pork 
together with the trimmings of the goose liver, are chop- 
ped together very fine. Season with \ oz. salt, a little 
u round pepper, and a little mace. The inside of the bou]) 



{ 43 ) 

tureen is now coated with lard, then a layer of the chop- 
|)ed meat, and a layer of the liver is alternately put iuto 
it. Arrange so as to leave the upper and under layern of 
^'hopped meat. Then close the tureen with the lid and 
iiang it or set it in a kettle of boiling water. After tlic 
pie is done, the tureen is removed and h not uncovered 
until the whole is perfectly cool. Then the lid may be ta- 
ken oE and the pie covered with a coat of lard. The lid 
!S replaced and the whole set aside until it is to be used. 
If the tureen can be hermetically sealed, the pie will re- 
main in good condition for any length of time. 

/Sausage Pie. — Take 3^ ft)S. lean raw pork, 3^ lbs. 
streaked pork, 1 ib. raw veal. Chop the whole together 
fine, and add 1 oz salt, ^ oz ground white pepper, a little 
cardamon, a little grated lemon peel, the yoiks of 2 raw 
eggs, and a teacupful of clear cold water. Rub the mix- 
ture together thoroughly and stuff into sheep casings. 
They are dried in the air for 24 hours. Puff paste (as de- 
scribed in puff paste pie) is wrapped around each sausage 
and the whole baked. They can be eaten warm or cold. 

Italian Meat Pie. — Take 4^ lbs. pigs' liver and 1 lb. of 
pork; chop the whole together fine and add 1 lb. gGo?e 
liver; then chop again, and to this add 2 oz salt, ^ oz 
ground pepper, ^ oz ground cardamon, a little mace. Mix 
the whole thoroughly with the yolks of 4 eggs. A tin 
form is then used, covering the inside generously with lard 
I'lace 2 strips of very fat raw pork upon the bottom, and 
upon thifii a layer 2|- inches thick of chopped meat; then 
again 2 more strips of fat pork, and upon this the remain- 
der of the meat. The whole is now set in the oven, leav- 
ing it uncovered to bake. When done it is removed, and 
melted lard poured over it until the whole is entirely cov- 
ered. The form with its contents is placed in a cool 
place for 24 hours. The form is removed by 
holding in hot water for a few seconds. It is garnished 
to suit the taste of the maker. 

Ham Balls. — Chop cold cooked pieces ot ham, season 
with pepper, chopped parseley, or a little sweet raajoram. 
Add 4 tablespoonsful of stale bread crumbs to 1 gill of 
milk, stir and cook until thick, add the yolks of 2 eggs, 
take from the fire and add 1 cup of the chopped ham, mix 
and stand away to cool. When cold, form into balls, di}> 



( 44 ) 

into beaten egg, then into bread ornmbs, and fry in smo- 
king hot fat. 

Pichled Chicken. — Boil 3 chickens until the meat will 
fall from the bones; remove the meat as whole as possi- 
ble and pat into a stone jar; add to the pint of water m 
which they were boiled enough vinegar to cover the meat; 
season with cloves, allspice, pepper and salt, and pour hot 
over the chicken. 

Hamburg Steak JVb. i.— Chop 1 lb. of lean beef, add to 
it 1 tablespoonful of onion juice, ^ teaspoonf ul of salt, J 
teaspoonf ul of black pepper; mix well together. Moisten 
the hands in cold water, take 2 tablespoonsful of the mix- 
ture and form with the hands into small round cakes or 
steaks. This quantity should make 8. Put 2 tablespoons- 
ful of butler in a frying pan; when hot put in the steaks, 
brown on one side, then turn and brown the other. Dish 
them, add a teaspoonful of flour to the butter remaining 
m the pan, mix until smooth, add ^ pint of boiling water, 
stir constantly until it boils; add salt and pepper, and if 
you like, a tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce; pour 
this over the steaks and serve; or they may be broiled 
same as plain steak, seasoned with salt and pepper and 
spread with butter. 

Hamburg Steak JVb. 2. — Chop a piece of tender beef, 
both fat and lean. Then add grated bread crumbs, onion 
and parseley, minced fine, season with pepper and salt, 
grated nutmeg and lemon peel. Mix all together and 
moisten with egg well beaten. Roll into balls. They are 
usually served by dipping in flour and frying on both 
sides. 

Chopped Steak.- -Take a raw sirloin steak, remove the 
bone and chop fine. Season with salt and pepper, make 
into a large flat cake about -J inch thick. These are usu- 
ally fried in butter; brown on both sides. 

Cannelo7i. — Chop 1 lb. of uncooked lean beef, add to it 
the yolk of an egg, a tablespoonful of chopped parseley, 
a tablespoonful of melted butter, 2 tablespoonsful of stale 
bread crumbs, a teaspoonful of salt, and \ teaspoonful of 
pepper. Mix all well together, and form into a roll about 
6 inches long and 4 inches in diameter; wrap in greased 
paper and bake in a quick oven 30 minutes. When done. 



(46) 

remove the paper and serve on a heated dish with brown 
sauce poured around it. 

Mince Meat No. 1. — Cover 2 lbs. of beef with boiling 
water, simmer until tender, and stand aside over night to 
cool. In tie morning chop it. Shred and chop 2 lbs. of 
beef suet. Pare, core and chop 4 lbs. of apples. Chop 1 
lb. of citron, -J- lb. of candied lemon peel, and ^ lb. of can- 
died orange peel. Stone 2 lbs. of layer raisins. Pit-k, 
wash and dry 2 lbs. of currants, and stem 2 lbs. of seed- 
less raisins. Mix all these together, and add the juice and 
rind of 2 oranges, 2 lemons, 2 nutmegs, grated, ^ oz. of 
cloves, \ oz. of cinnamon, \ oz. mace, and 1 teaspoonful 
salt. Mix again and pack in a stone jar Mix 1 qt. sher- 
ry or good homemade wine with 1 qt. good brandy, pour 
this over the mince meat, cover closely, and keep in a cool 
place. This will keep nicely all winter. When a quan- 
tity is needed for use, dip it out and thin with cider or 
wine. 

Mince Meat No. ^. — 1 quart of chopped meat, the same 
quantity of chopped suet, 3 qts. chopped apples, 1 lb. of 
raisins, 2 lbs. currants, ^ lb. citron, 1 nutmeg, 1 table- 
spoonful each of cloves, cinnamon and allspice, 1 qt. of 
cider and 1 lb. sugar. Mix the apples, meat and suet to- 
gether, boil the other ingredients and pour the hot liquid 
over the mixture. Add ^ pint of brandy. 

JBeej Tea. — ' 'hop lean beef very fine, and to each pound 
allow 1 pint of cold water. Add the water to the meat, 
which should be in an earthen or porcelain lined vessel, 
and stand it in a cold place for at least 2 hours, 
stirring frequently with a wooden spoon, then place it over 
a moderate fire to gradually come to simmering point, 
then strain and press the meat thoroughly. Stand the 
liquid away to cool. When cold, remove every particle 
of fat from the surface, and it is ready to use. 

Essence of Beef . — Chop some lean, tender beef, put in 
a bottle an(l cork tightly. Set the bottle jn a pot of cold 
water; let the water boil and keep the bottle in it for 6 
hours. The heat of the water will extract all the juice 
from the beef in the bottle. 

Veal Loaf. — Chop Z\ lbs. of uncooked veal and \ lb, 
of ham, add 1 cup of stale bread crumbs, 1 teaspoonful of 
salt, 1 of onion juice, \ teaspoonful of cloves, same of saf#|g 



( 48 ) 

and ]>epper, and 2 well beaten eggs; mix all well together 
and form into a square loaf. Put it in a baking pan, brush 
it over with egg, and bake in a slow oven for 2 hours, 
basting 2 or 3 times with melted butter. Serve cold; cut 
in thin slices. 

Meat Loaf. — Boil 2 lbs. of veal or beef until tender, 
chop, add 2 eggs; 6 Boston crackers rolled fine, 1 table- 
spoonful of salt, 1 tablespoonful of pepper, 1 teacupful of 
water; pack in a pan and bake 1 hour. To be eaten cold; 
sliced thin. It is very nice for tea. 

Beef Cakes. — Chop some beef that is rare, with a little 
fat bacon or ham, season with pepper, salt and a little on- 
ion; mix well, and form into small cakes. Fry them a 
light brown, and serve with a good gravy made of soup 
stock thickened with brown flour. 

Haggis. — Chop the uncooked heart, tongue, and half of 
the liver of a sheep and mix with them ^ their weight of 
chopped bacon, add ^ cup of stale bread crumbs, the gra- 
ted rind of 1 lemon, a teaspoonful of salt, ^ teaspoonful of 
black pepper, and 2 well beaten eggs; pack this into a 
well buttered mould, cover, place it in a kettle partly fill- 
ed with boiling water, and boil slowly for 2 hours. When 
done, turn it on a dish, and serve it plain. 

Stuffed Chicken. — In removing the skin of a chicken, 
care siiould be taken not to cut open too far at the breast. 
The skin can be drawn from the flesh without any difficul- 
ty. The heal is cut off, while the feet, with their nuis- 
cks, remain. The toes are removed at the first joint. The 
opening made in the breast is sewed up, and the stuffing 
filled through the open neck. For filling, all the meat of 
the chicken is boiled tender, chopped fine; and mixed with 
1 lb. of fiueiy-chopped boiled pork, and 1 lb. of chopped 
goose liver. Season this with 1 oz. salt, f oz, ground 
white pepper, and ^ lb. prepared truffles, cut in long strips. 
This mixture is stiifled through the neck of the chicken, 
which is then sewed up; the chicken is now wrapped in 
linen and boiled for \ hour. Is then taken from the boil- 
ing ^^ater, cooled in clear, cold water for 1 minute and 
placed in a cool room for 24 hours. The line;! may then 
be removed, as the meat will then have become firm. In 
garnishing this, use brown jelly from veal roast, slices of 
red beets and small Turkish wheat. Another way to cook 



I ( 47 ) 

ciapon is by roasting rare in butter, in place of boiling. 

Stuffed IhrJcey. — The removing of the skm and the 
stuffing are done exactly the same as with stuffed chicken 
the filling being made as follows: 4^ lbs. of finely chopped 
boiled pork, 2^ lbs. finely chopped boiled veal, and 4^ lbs. 
finely chopjted raw goose liver. Season with 2 oz. kitch- 
en salt, ^ oz ground white pepper, and 1 lb. prepared truf- 
fles, cut in slices. Add the yolks of 6 raw eggs. Mix the 
whole well and knead into a dough. As a turkey is larg- 
er than a chicken, it niust be boiled \ hour longer. lb 
can also be roasted instead of boiling. The garnishing 
for wild boars' head may also be applied to turkey. 

Smotliered .Meat. — The tough ends of sirloin steaks and 
other pieces not fit for boiling may be chopped, seasoned 
with salt and pepper and a few bits of butter; put this in 
a baking pan, cover with another and bake in a quick ov- 
en about 20 minutes. Serve with its own gravy. 

Stuffed Pigh Head No. 1. — If the head of a pig is to 
be stuffed, it must be carefully cleaned and free from any 
bruises or marks. In cleaning, it should not be scalded 
too hot, or it will injure the head, and must be perfectly 
clean so that not a bristle can be found. The head with 
the neck is severed from the body. All the neck, cheek 
and head rind is taken off, leaving about ^ inch of fat, up- 
on them. In peeling off the rind, cut from the neck to- 
wards the snout. When the latter is reached, cut off the 
under jaw-bone and the nose about 3 inches back, lo^tting 
it remain in the rind. The head is now sewed up iu such 
a way that the shape of the pig's head and the opening at 
th*^ neck remain. The sewing had better be done by a 
saddler. The covering is now readv for the stuffing 
which may be prepared as follows: 6^ lbs. boiled salt 
pork, 4^ lbs. raw lean pork, 3^ lbs. raw veal, 2^ lbs. lean 
beef, 2^ lbs. fat pork; chop together fine; tlien season 
with 2 oz. salt, 2 oz. ground pepper, 6 small pieces of gar- 
lic, 2 grated onions, yolks of 4 eggs, and 4 oz. Pistachio 
nuts, ])reviously boiled tor \ of an hour in 1 gill of wine. 
After the wine has cooled it is also added. When these 
articles have been well mixed, cut 6 boiled pickled i>igs' 
tongues or beef tongues into strips, distributing these 
carefully through the mass. Stuff all into the pig's head 
through the opening left for this purpose. After which 



( 48 ) 

tbe opening is closed. The above quantity of itaffiing is 
just sufficient for a medium sized pig's head; but should 
the head be larger or smaller, the ingredients must be in- 
creased or diminished accordingly. The head is now 
wrapped in clean, white Imen, and heavy string wound 
about it, being careful not to injure the shape. The 
whole IS boiled over a moderate fire for 1^ hours. It is 
cooled in clear, cold water for 10 minutes, then placed up- 
on a flat dish for 24 hours to become solid, after which 
the linen covering may be removed. The head is now 
ready for use. A nice way to serve is wi'h a sauce made 
as follows: 4-^ lbs. hard boiled yolks of eggs, a handful of 
parsley, and several capers; chop together fine. Grate in 
1 onion and the peel of ^ lemon. Add 1 spoontul of mus- 
tard, 1 gill of wine vinegar and a little sugar. The whole 
is mixed and rubbed together thoroughly, then pressed 
through a fine sieve. Another sauce may be made as fol- 
lows: 1 gill of wine vinegar, a little parsley, 6 small on- 
ions chopped and fried in butter, 1 oz. capers, 1 oz. mush- 
rooms chopped fine and boiled in vinegar, 2 oz. mustard, 
5 oz. cleaned and chopped sardines (bones being removed) 
the chopped peel and juice of 1 lemon, 1 medium sized 
grated onion, 1 oz. of powdered sugar, and 1 oz. of sweet 
or olive oil, all mixed and rubbed together thoroughly, 
and then })re38 through a sieve. Attention is called to the 
iact that the stuffed pig's head is seldom served without 
being garnished. This may be done as follows: Melted, 
but not too hot lard is poured over the whole pig's head. 
This must be done in a cool place, and can be accomplish- 
ed best in winter. When the coating, which is to be very 
thin, has become quite firm, a paper funnel (the lower 
opening of which must not be larger than a knitting nee- 
dle) is half filled with lard and then closed at the top. 
It is taken in the hand and gently pressed, the lard being 
forced through the lower opening of the funnel and guid- 
ed in such a manner that it will form different figures and 
designs upon the head, according to the taste of the ma- 
nipulator. The head can also be garnished with colored 
sugar or small suirar cakes, and above all, it must not be 
forgotten to provide the eye sockets with glass eyes. 

Stuffed Pi'fs Head No. 2, — This does not differ from 
No. 1, except in the tilling, which is prepared as follows: 
CV9D very fine 6^ lbs. lean pork, 4i lbs. veal, both of 



i ( « ) 

I 

which have been boiled, adding 4^ lbs. raw fat pork, and 
1 ft), sardines, freed from all l;ones. Season with 6 oz. 
salt, 2 oz. ground pepper, ^ oz. cardamon, and ^- lb. each 
of Piiiione and Pistachio nuts,' previously boiled in 1 pint 
of wine for |- of an hour, using also the wine after it has 
cooled; then add 6 small chopped onions, fried in butter, 
and the raw yolks of 6 eggs. After all this has been well 
mixed, take 1 large beef tongue and 4^ ibs. of pickled 
boiled pork, both cut into strips, and distribute them 
among the whole, then pour the mass into the pig's head. 
It is treated the same as pig's head No. 1. 

Stuffed Wild Boar's Head. — Although the head of a 
wild boar should really be used for this purpose, the head 
of a common black pig is more frequently taken. The 
bristles are singed off over a good coal fire, and the skin 
is removed in the same manner as in stuffed pig's head 
No. 1. The filling is prepared as follows: 4-|- ibs. of lean 
boiled pork, 2 J ft)S. boiled veal, 2^ lbs. fat raw pork, all 
the lean meat of 2 roasted geese; chop together very tine, 
and add 4^ ft)s. finely chopped goose liver. Season with 
5 oz. salt, \ oz. ground cardamon, 2^ lbs. prepared truf- 
fles, cut in strips, and the yolks of 4 raw eggs. Mix the 
whole together thoroughly, and proceed the same as in 
pig's head No. 1. This black pig's head is not coated 
with lard before garnisliing. 

Suckling Pig. — A pig about 3 or 4 weeks old is butch- 
ered, scalded, in not too hot water, and carefully cleaned. 
Care must be taken that the skin of the pig is not injured. 
In caae of fine hairs remaining, they may be singed off. 
lu cleaning the pie;, it must not be cut open its whole 
length. After being cleaned, the ribs are cautiously loos- 
ened from the back bone, and the whole, together with 
the bones of the head, carefully taken out. The eyes are 
now removed and the pig salted, until the stuffing is pre- 
pared. For this use 2^ ft)S. raw lean pork, 4^ ibs. fat 
goose liver, and a few small onions fried in butter. The 
whole is chopped together until quite fine. Then add 1^ 
ft)S. j)repared truffles, cut in strip?, 2 oz. salt, 1 oz. ground 
pepper. Knead the whole together, adding the yolks of 
6 eggs, and stuff into the pig, being carof ul that the pig 
retains its shape. TiaC opening in the belly is then sewed 
u" , and the whole laid upon a few small sticks in the hot- 



( 50 ) I 

torn of a frying pan. The pig must lie on its belly while 
roasting, the front legs stretched forward, while the hind: 
feet are placed nnder the hams. The back is covered 
with slices ol bacon to keep from browning too fast. Two 
hours is generally sufficent for roasting. The pig is then 
placed upon a flat dish, and can be garnished and decora- 
ted to suit the taste. 



CHAPTER VIII. 



Dressed Poultry. — In preparing Poultry for market do 
not feed for at least 12 hours and it would be better not 
to give food for 24 hours before killing, but during that 
period the poultry should have plenty of water. In case 
any fowl or turkey is found to have food in the crop after 
having been killed, it should be removed by making a 
short clear cut incision in the crop and turning it inside 
out, and after the food is removed, replacing it carefully. 
Never attempt to force the food through the mouth as 
that is liable to cause discoloration. 

Joining. — Opening the veins of the neck as practiced in 
former years for killing is now obsolete, and nearly all 
the poultry of late years has been killed by cutting through 
the roof the mouth to the brain with a sharp pointed 
knife. To ensure the arrival oi poultry in good condition 
the blood must be drained from tlie body as thoroughly 
as possible and to gain this most essential point the kill- 
ing must be done carefully and only by a practiced hand. 
If the fowl is cut too deep and hard sufficient to cause in- 
stant death, the blood will not flow freely and the leathers 
will set and be difficult to remove, especially if it is de- 
sired to dry pick. If the cut is properly made to reach 
the brains and paralyze the fowl, it relaxes all the muscles 
the blood will flow freely and the feathers may be easily 
removed before the fowl is actually dead. 

Dressing. — There are two methods of dressing poultry 
for market — dry picking and scalding. As a rule dry 
picked tuikeys, chickens and fowls have the preference 
when the stock is in perfect condition but lean poultry al- 
ways looks poorly when dry picked and turkeys and chick- 
ens should never be dressed that way except when fat and 
in fine condition. Stock carries better when dry picked 
which is one of the reasons of the nreference. but when 



! ( 51 ) 

wanted for immediate use handsome scalded poultry sells 
^s well and often better than dry picked especially at the 
holiday seasons. For shipment to the New York market 
the heads should always be left and the intestines not 
drawn. 

Dry PicJcing. — Immediately after killing, carefully re- 
move the feathers cleanly, using the greatest care not to 
tear the skin. If the poultry is to be packed in ice for 
itomediate shipment it should be placed in water of natur- 
al temperature for about \ hour and then thrown in ice 
water and allowed to remain 8 or 10 hours when it will be 
in proper condition for shipment. 

If the dry picked poultry is to be packed dry for cold 
weather shipment it should be hung up by the feet in a 
cold place where it will not freeze and left until the ani- 
mal heat IS all out and the fowl thoroughly cold and per- 
fectly dry. Any animal heat in the body or moisture on 
the skin is almost sure to cause the poultry to arrive at 
market in more or less poor condition. 

Scalding. — For scalding poultry, the water should be at 
the boiling point but not actually boiling; the bird being 
held by the head and legs should be immersed and lifted 
up and down in the water three or four times— this makes 
picking easy. When the head is immersed it turns the 
color of the comb, and giyes the eyes a shrunken appear- 
ance which often leads buyers to think the fowl has been 
sick. The feathers should then be at once removed from 
chickens, fowls and turkeys, pin feathers and all, very 
cleanly and without breaking the skin. Ducks and geese 
after being scalded should be wrapped in a cloth lor a few 
minutes only, then the down will come off easily with the 
feathers. All scalded poultry should be plumped after 
picking by being dipped two ov three seconds into water, 
nearly boiling hot and then at once into cool water of nat- 
ural temperature and left for 15 or 20 minutes. If the 
scalded poultry is intended for immediate shipment pack- 
ed in ice it should be changed from the cool water to that 
of lower temperature but not ice water, and allowed to re- 
main about 1 hour and then changed again to ice water 
and left 8 or 10 hours when it will be thoroughly cold and 
in condition to pack. 

If the scalded poultry is intended to be shipped drv in 



( 52 ) l! 

cold weather it should be removed from the cool wate 
and hung up by the feet in a cool place but not where i^ 
will fretze, until the animal heat is entirelv out and the 
fowl perfectly dry when it will be ready to pack. ' 

Great care should be taken to guard against over scald- 
ing or slack scalding. The former is apt to cause the yel-; 
low cuticle to loosen and rub off which gives the poultry 
a poor appearance, while slack scalding is apt to cause the 
poultry to arrive in sticky or slippery condition. 

Hog Dressed Calves. — Care should be taken to dress the 
calf as neatly as possible, as they always command more 
attention and are the first to clean up on a weak or declin- 
ing market. Large quantities of calves are received in the 
markets which are more or less bloody and mussy, either 
from ignorance or carelessness of the shippers, and they 
are sold much lower than they otherwise would, so that if 
shippers will observe these instructions closely they will 
be repaid for their little e. tra trouble by larger returns. 
Previous to killing, the calf should not be fed for a few 
hours, nor be driven or worried, but should be perfectly 
quiet. Calves from 3 to 6 weeks old and weighing from 
80 to 110 lbs. are the most desirable, although slightly 
heavier veals if very fine sell well, and very heavy calves, 
and such as have been fed upon grass, or partly upon but- 
termilk, have a demand at certain seasons, but at low 
])rice8. Calves under three weeks of age, weighing: under 
GO lbs., are called "Bobs," and are liable to be seized by 
the sanitary authorities as unfit for food. 

After killing, the calf should be hung up by the hind 
legs, and the heart, liver, lights, and all the entrails le 
moved, particularly the rectum and windpipe, so that the 
air can circulate freely through the calf. Be careful not 
to disturb the covering of the kidneys, and do not split the 
calf open through the breast or hind quarters, but only 
from the bag to the breast bone. Do not leave the head 
skin on, as the buyers expect it to be alloAved for, or have 
it cut off before weighing the calf. Cut off the legs close 
to, but just below the knee joint. Carefully wipe out the 
blood with a damp cloth. Let the calf hang in a cold 
place, where it will not freeze, until perfectly cod and 
hard and animal heat entirely out before shipping. In 
warm weather fill the calf with ice and sew it up, but oth- 
erwise theccalf should never be sewed. Fasten the tasf 



( 63 ) 

with your name on between tLe hind legs, and ship by ex- 
press. The haslet, heart, &c., should be shipped sepa- 
rately in a box. 

CHAPTER IX. 

S.OW to Build a Good Ice House. — In regard to location 
have it, when possible, by itself — not in a hollow, or 
where water can run into it from a bank. Having select- 
ed this, prepare the bottom. If the soil is sand or of a 
porous nature, it will need no drain; but if not, great 
care should he taken to arrange for drainage. In an or- 
dinary house, dig a trench through the center 30 inches 
wide and 12 inches deep. Fill this with loose stone to 
within 3 inches of the top, and slope all parts of the bot- 
tom to this drain. Then till to the top with shavings and 
straw, covering over with loose boards. You will then 
liave a perfect drain that will carry oif all water and let 
ill no air. The foundation is better of stone or brick, if 
not, set posts in the ground to build on. Set posts 6x6 at 
the corners and every 10 or 12 feet betweei), filling be- 
tween these with 2x4 studding set flush with the outride. 
Put boarding on this, on the boarding nail 2x48, putting 
the outside boarding on them. This makes an air space 
of 4 inches. Now set inside another set of 2x4 studding 
which will leave a space of 10 inches for filling; ceil be- 
tween this and fill with sawdust or shavings. Be sure it 
is filled solid and dry. You now have the body of the 
Ice House. With an air space of four inches, and inside 
10 inches of filling, making a perfect house that will not 
warm through. Have the inside smooth so that the ice 
will settle and not catch. Make an ordinary truss roof. 
The roof should project at least two feet, and can be of 
shingles or boards. The loft inside, it is well to board 
over, as it stops all heat from the roof. Openings to the 
air should be as few as possible and made to close tight. 

If you follow these directions you will have a perfect 
house that will keep ice with a small percentage of loss. 
If a cheaper or poorer house is wanted you can leave out 
1 i;*^ air space and fill solid with shavings or saw dust, but 
i ng should be 10 to 14 inches thick. Whitewash the 
h use; it costs but little, and will make it last a great deal 
1( iger. 



( 54 ) 

In regard to filling: The usual way is to cut ice in 
blocks 22 inches square. If of even size, commence put- 
ting in on the edge, keeping 3 or 4 inches from the edge', 
of the house. Set in your course. Use an ice adz and i 
level the top, filling in the spaces. Now fill in between \ 
the house and the ice with saw dust, putting on other 
courses and doing the same. If the ice is cut in bad orir- ' 
regular shape, lay flat, filling with pieces so as to make 
solid courses. The idea is to have the ice as compact as 
it can be put in. When done, fill on top with 8 or 10 
inches of saw dust, and it is complete. 

In regard to the care of ice, do not neglect it. Be care- 
ful that the top is always covered. See that you do not 
get air holes through the saw dust, as that lets in the hot 
«ir and melts the ice fast. In regard to filling for houses: 
When saw dust cannot be had you can use straw — rye or 
oat straw being the best; but there is hardly any place 
but with a little care through the summer plenty of saw 
dust can be had. In regard to the size and capacity of 
houses: They will hold the following, for every foot in 
height, ice packed fairly solid and to be well frozen 14x20 
five tons; 14x25, six tons; 14x30, seven tons; 20x25, nine 
tons; 20x30, eleven tons; 20x40, fif-ieen tons. This is a- 
bout the capacity of houses of this size for every foot in 
height. The waste for a small house is greater in propor- 
tion than for a large one. 

Handling ice after it is cut: When it is possible, it is 
the better way to build an incline from the highest point 
the ice is wanted in the house, to the water or ground; if 
to the water the lower end runs into the water. The in- 
cline should never be over 45 '^ , as it would be too steep 
to work with safety. The run-way should be about 25 
inches wide in the clear and 10 inches deep, the bottom 
made of slats so that small pieces can drop through. On 
one side build a foot walk with railing for the use of the 
one handling the ice graj)ple. Have openings in the in- 
cline large enough to let the cakes of ice through, and in- 
clines from these on different levels into the house. Build 
all this fairly strong; brace it well so that it will stay to 
place. Fasten a "top gin" block m the upper part of the 
ice house far enough inside so that the ice will be pulled 
clear in; on the ground fasten a "lower gin" block, use 
rope |- to 1 inch in diameter, attach to one end a team of 



I (65) 

' horses, run the other end through the bl<«>ck on the grouna 
from there through the upper block and 'down the incline 
and fasten it to the jack grapple. In operating this, from 
one to five cakes, or whatever the horses can pull, are 
started from the bottom with the jack grapple. The man 
in charge of the grapple going up the walk to steady it. 
When It has delivered its load he walks back carrying the 
grapple with him, the man on the ground backing up the 
liorses and bringing with him the slack rope. The ice is 
let through the first opening in the incline and run into 
the house. When the house is full to this opening close 
It and run the ice in on the next. 



THE HIDE PIT. 

To Keep Hides From Drying 0%iL—Q\x\. a hole through 
the slaughter house floor and place therein a trap door 7 x 
7 feet. Dig out four feet deep, wall up the sides with 
brick or plank. Make the center 6 inches deeper than 
sides sloping to the center. Cover the bottom with \ in. 
of salt; lay one hide; spread the salt over it; throw in the 
head and legs; lay on another hide, and S3 on. By so do- 
ing you keep your hides from the sun and wind. 

PEESERVALINE. 

To Preserve or Keep Meat Without ibe.— (1) one oz. 
salicylic acid; (4) four oz. nitras potassie; (3) three gal. 
water. Dip the pieces and hang up to drain, or sponge 
the quarters if not convenient to cut in pieces. To keep 
sausage or bologna use one-half pound to 100 lbs. of meat; 
alter trimming out the meat, sja-inkle the compound over 
the meat (dry) and mix well; then allow the meat to stand 
one hour or longer before grinding. The above is goo<J 
to use with salt for curing meat. 









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